Wine Reviews

99

Beau Vigne Owner’s Reserve 2023 Guest Cottage Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($250)

This Signature Series expression shows a respectable grip. It’s an athletic red, with a savory earth-meets-new leather persona; dramatic as it is luxurious. Dimensional, with dark, chocolate-covered blackberry, black strap molasses, and espresso. It continues to evolve, with a textural gloss of licorice-coated blueberry and dried lavender.

96

Bella Union 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($80)

Fresh aromas of blueberry pie, garrigue, Worcestershire, and espresso kept us mesmerized. This is Rutherford at its core, although the grapes are also sourced from Oak Knoll District, St. Helena, adding their own components for texture and complexity. Cherry and cherrywood round out along creamy, streamlined tannins. The four other Bordeaux varieties are added in small quantities. Aged in 50% new French oak for 17 months.

95

Bella Union 2023 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($55)

The chilly location of Grand Sky Vineyard in Carneros shows off character-plus for this clean white wine. Notes of Mandarin orange peel, graham cracker crust and lemon meringue are lifted by its charming acidity, with no use of ML. Freshness reigns.

93

Bella Union 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($45)

Estate fruit establishes itself through this glossy white. Honeyed Golden apple and lime chiffon comes across, transporting us to a unique style of Sauv Blanc: not grassy or herbal, not tropical, and certainly not tearing our palates with harsh citrus. A low and slow fermentation, along with use of one-third barrel, one-third stainless steel, and one-third concrete egg showcases the best nuances, keeping flavors and aromatics preserved.

94

Belle Glos 2024 Oeil de Perdix Rosé of Pinot Noir, Sonoma County ($25)

This Sonoma County pink sipper has a slight French accent. Mineral tones, summer peach, rose petals, and fresh melon see a bit of oak, but it’s barely susceptible. The glossy mouthfeel provides a true joie de vivre.

91

Benvolio 2024 Pinot Grigio, Friuli, Italy ($10)

The vinous equivalent of letting your hair down, this 100% Pinot Grigio is laden with notes of a fruit cocktail including melon and lychee alongside white jasmine, peach skin, and creme fraiche throughout. Pillowy texture to the taste, there is a vivacious quality that is a pure delight.

94

Bien Nacido Estate 2022 Pellenc Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County ($50)

While all other Bien Nacido Estate fruit is hand-harvested, Pellenc refers to the top-of-the line tractor that harvests long rows or high yield vineyards, increasing efficiency in the vineyards. This white is steely and clean, its fine lines defined by a foundation of minerality and the delicacy of lemon sorbet. A hint of leesy character is found on the focused finish.

92

Bollini 2024 Barricato 20 Chardonnay, Trentino, Italy ($19)

With just a whiff of vanilla bean and a faintly creamy aspect to its texture, this is a minimally oaked Chardonnay. Medium-bodied, it manages to be subtle and clean while still offering interesting nuances from partial barrel fermentation and extended lees aging. Complete Chardonnay for $19? Believe it.