Wine Reviews

93

Papi 2024 Demi-Sec Sauvignon Blanc, Central Valley, Chile ($ ?)

With only 5.9% abv, this wine manages to caress, with notes of lemon batter, melon, and pineapple. Acidity amplifies the flavors, and the wine possesses a soft, billowy texture with marzipan-marshmallow, vibrant and fresh.

96

Passionata de Sedona 2023, Santa Barbara County ($80)

Lisa Dahl is the most acclaimed chef and restaurateur in Sedona, Arizona. She presides over six venues, and she is also recognized for her philanthropy. This blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah, and 10 % Mourvèdre is magnificent. It opens with a taste of wild black currant just plucked from the soil. Plum and Sandalwood offer a textural complement to its sleek tannins. Lavender and sage liven up the long, luxe finish.

96

Piper-Heidsieck 2015 Cuvee Brut, Champagne, France ($80)

What a striking, exciting nose: Pear crumble, marzipan, and brown fig swirl with touches of damp earth, dried citrus, and cardamom. Following through on that promise of intensity, the mouthfeel is lush, glossy, and long, showing flashes of blood orange and walnut en route to the well-polished finish. 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay.

95

Piper-Heidsieck NV Cuvee 1785, Champagne, France ($65)

The word “banger” may not typically appear in a Champagne review, but this zippy, zesty, zingy classic—a blend of 50% Pinot Noir, 30% Meunier, and 20% Chardonnay—warrants it. On the nose, apple-caramel brioche is dappled with sour cherry, toasted almond, ginger, and a crisp hint of linen that presages the chic litheness of the palate, which focused acidity snaps to attention. There, a vein of oyster shell runs through preserved lemon and white fig before a nutmeg-sprinkled finish.

90

Porta Dante 2023 Pinot Grigio, Veneto, Italy ($12)

Aromas and flavors of citrus (especially grapefruit and lime), quince, star fruit, and chamomile openly appeal in this bright, juicy, easy-drinking white, making it a sure bet for an everyday buy.

91

Porta Dante Prosecco, Veneto, Italy ($15)

Notes of honeydew, white peach, lemon-lime soda, and acacia flower glimmer on the nose and palate of this amiable extra-dry expression, whose gentle sweetness and creaminess are balanced by sunny acidity.

92

Quilt 2024 Threadcount Rosé of Pinot Noir, CA ($20)

Aromatics of cherry blossoms and rose petals linger. Raspberry lights up the glass: stark, lean, and clean. Its glassy mouthfeel fields notes of fresh berries and a hint of minerality.

90

Quilt 2024 Threadcount Sauvignon Blanc, CA ($20)

Crisp and fresh, with honeyed apples, lime sorbet, and garden herbs.