Wine Reviews

93

MacRostie 2024 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County ($28)

Given the sources—including such famed Sonoma growers as the Sangiacomo and Dutton families as well as MacRostie’s own Nightwing Vineyard in the Petaluma Gap—it stands to reason that this bottling would epitomize fruit purity. So it does. Star fruit and Asian pear take pride of place on the nose, laced with lemon balm and chamomile and sprinkled with vanilla and cinnamon, while the full, judiciously rich palate suggests mango and preserved lemon before a finish marked by crystallized ginger.

93

Magic Bus 2023 Red Wine Blend, Paso Robles ($18)

Black cherry and vanilla are impacted by the wine’s depth of character and sleek mouthfeel. Ripe and rich, with chalky mid-palate tannins surrounded by Licorice and dark chocolate.

92

Magic Bus 2024 Chardonnay, Central Coast ($18)

From Master Sommelier Guy Stout, this white offers a buoyant mouthfeel, leesy, with vanilla, lemon-spice, and peach tones. Ample acidity maintains its freshness.

92

Magic Bus 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Central Coast ($18)

Glistening with crisp, just-squeezed grapefruit and seasoned with basil and dill. Salinity follows through as a bolt of acidity ignites pineapple on the zippy finish.

91

Maison Paul Junet 2023 Grand Mirande, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France ($55)

A rare Saint-Emilion Grand Cru made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon rather than Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this is still rather oaky at this point in its development, but also shows a streak of sweet, ripe blackberry fruit enabling it to achieve balance. Notes of toast and spices lend complexity for now, but this will be even better in a couple of years.

92

Maison Paul Junet 2024 Grand Mirande Chardonnay, Vin de France ($28)

This shows a golden hue that could be surprising in a young wine, but there’s not a hint of oxidation beyond what’s to be expected from fermentation and aging in 400-liter new French oak barrels. Rich fruit recalling baked apples is deeply flavored and nicely accented with subtle spice and vanilla notes from the oak, resulting in a very successful, distinctive Chardonnay offering strong value.

93

Malbado 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina ($20)

Cigar leaf and espresso demand attention while graphite grabs the teeth on first pass. Tannins are amply displayed, and the wine bears a fine structure within a streamlined frame.

91

Malbado 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina ($20)

Cigar leaf and espresso demand attention while graphite grabs the teeth on first pass. Tannins are amply displayed, and the wine bears a fine structure within a streamlined frame.