Wine Reviews

90

BIA 2023 Big Hearted Red, Lake County ($24)

Sold in a one-liter bottle and blended from 39% Nero D’Avola, 31% Tempranillo, and 30% Barbera, this is a very informal-looking product, but one that offers delicious flavors with admirable balance. Medium-bodied, it leads with open fruit aromas and flavors lifted by some fresh acidity and firmed in the finish by very fine-grained tannins. Good wine and a good deal.

92

BIA 2024 Light Hearted White, Lake County ($24)

Playfully named, labeled, and offered in a one-liter bottle with a screw cap, this turns out to be seriously delicious and admirably complex. An interesting blend of 91% Sauvignon Blanc, 7% Chenin Blanc, and 2% Riesling makes this aromatically appealing and deliciously fruity and fresh on the palate, with a profile that is both lifted and substantial.

90

Black Girl Magic NV Moscato, California ($15)

With a low abv of 10.5 percent, this delicious sparkler opens with orange creamsicle and ripe apricot. The bubbles bring a thrill to the palate with succulent notes of honeyed lemon and Anjou pear.

95

Bodegas Muriel 2016 Rioja Gran Reserva Viñas Viejas, Spain ($32)

A marvelously detailed wine that is almost fully mature as it approaches a decade since the fruit was harvested, this shows very expressive aromas and flavors intermingling spicy, savory notes with both red and black toned fruit. Both oak and tannin are fully integrated, making this a medium-bodied, versatile, and thoroughly delicious partner for many foods.

92

Bodegas Muriel 2024 Rioja Blanco, Spain ($20)

Wise Rioja producers are acting on rising world-wide demand for white wines by increasing concentration and depth of flavor—rather than just making light quaffing wines or relying too much on oak. Here’s a case in point, with fruit from Viura grapes yielding a medium-bodied wine showing fruit akin to Golden Apples that’s lifted and energized by a streak of citrus acidity.

91

Bon Vivant Sparkling Rosé, California ($21)

Interlaced with a yeasty note and a hint of mint, aromas of strawberry and cantaloupe announce this traditional-method blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, only to reappear on the jaunty and refreshing palate with suggestions of red apple and citrus. White pepper adds dash on the finish.

92

Bon Vivant Sparkling Wine, California ($20)

Fruity and vivacious, with lemony acidity and a crisp edge, this traditional-method brut expression of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir abounds with golden apple, honeysuckle, and creamy lemon curd, while intriguing hints of pineapple bun and fresh linen add contour.

92

Brassfield Estate 2024 Serenity White Wine, High Valley AVA, Lake County ($22)

Plump summer pear and tangerine cream offer a superb succulence, combining Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Gewürztraminer. Acidity is vocalized in harmony with a steely frame.