GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

95

Bodegas Muriel 2016 Rioja Gran Reserva Viñas Viejas, Spain ($32)

A marvelously detailed wine that is almost fully mature as it approaches a decade since the fruit was harvested, this shows very expressive aromas and flavors intermingling spicy, savory notes with both red and black toned fruit. Both oak and tannin are fully integrated, making this a medium-bodied, versatile, and thoroughly delicious partner for many foods.

92

Bodegas Muriel 2024 Rioja Blanco, Spain ($20)

Wise Rioja producers are acting on rising world-wide demand for white wines by increasing concentration and depth of flavor—rather than just making light quaffing wines or relying too much on oak. Here’s a case in point, with fruit from Viura grapes yielding a medium-bodied wine showing fruit akin to Golden Apples that’s lifted and energized by a streak of citrus acidity.

91

Bon Vivant Sparkling Rosé, California ($21)

Interlaced with a yeasty note and a hint of mint, aromas of strawberry and cantaloupe announce this traditional-method blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, only to reappear on the jaunty and refreshing palate with suggestions of red apple and citrus. White pepper adds dash on the finish.

92

Bon Vivant Sparkling Wine, California ($20)

Fruity and vivacious, with lemony acidity and a crisp edge, this traditional-method brut expression of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir abounds with golden apple, honeysuckle, and creamy lemon curd, while intriguing hints of pineapple bun and fresh linen add contour.

92

Brassfield Estate 2024 Serenity White Wine, High Valley AVA, Lake County ($22)

Plump summer pear and tangerine cream offer a superb succulence, combining Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Gewürztraminer. Acidity is vocalized in harmony with a steely frame.

94

Brassfield Estate Winery 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Block 14, High Valley AVA, Lake County ($65)

A bold entry, with teeth-grabbing notes of plum and plum pith, dried violets, and licorice. Minerality goes deep from volcanic soils, aligned with a fine acid structure and silky, but sturdy tannins.

93

Brassfield Estate Winery 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, High Valley AVA, Lake County ($35)

Licorice and espresso join up on a suede-lined path, with emerging notes of blackberry and graphite. Spiced tobacco and lavender are layered for more impact.

97

Brassfield Estate Winery 2022 Syrah, Perspective Vineyard, High Valley AVA, Lake County ($105)

This vineyard sits 3,000 feet above sea level, the winery’s highest elevation site. Planted with six different Syrah clones, it not only speaks to the volcanic terroir of High Valley but also brings a comparison to a fine Northern Rhône style red. The seamless integration of tannins offers a textural paradigm of firm and supple. Its velvet mouthfeel and chalky mineral tonality fields flavors of plum and violets, with a vivacious, palate-coating fennel-cedar finish.