Wine Reviews

94

Westhoff Pioneers 2023 FRA, Monterey County ($55)

An ode to the Rhône Valley via the Central Coast, this blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah has a beefy character, with robust notes of graphite, dark chocolate, and black cherry ganache. It possesses a majestic presence, as we taste soil and sunshine.

92

Westhoff Pioneers 2023 USA, Sonoma County ($55)

A salute to these American grapes Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, with the addition of Cabernet Sauvignon. Sage and espresso fortify bold, ripe notes of blackberry jam and white pepper. Prickly and woodsy, with a campfire smoke, brambly finish.

90

7Colores 2025 Sauvignon Blanc Reserva, Valle del Maule, Chile ($10)

Pear, Hawthorne, and mandarin punctuate a beckoning nose. This Sauvignon Blanc is concentrated and even complex, with layers of flavor that unfold like clues in a mystery novel. This is elegance incarnate with no shortage of verve. Mango and pineapple and white flower finish in harmony like the final chord of a piano nocturne.

92

About Face 2023 (CC-RB-23-A) Red Blend, Central Coast, CA ($24)

Comprised predominantly of 85% Merlot from Santa Barbara County’s Santa Ynez Valley along with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso’s Adelaida District, this is quite rich and flavorful without seeming overblown. Black fruit tones recalling ripe plums, dark cherries, and bright blackberries offer lots of flavor impact.

95

Adonna Wines 2023 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($85)

From Japanese American vintner Donna Kato and winemaker Ashley Holland, this is a magnificent red, lusty and earthy, with a generous wash of Luxardo cherries glittering with white pepper. Juicy notes of pomegranate are accented by a tickle of acidity, refreshing the palate with each sip. Herbal tones of tobacco leaf intensify as vivid notes of vanilla-raspberry offer a satin-lined finish.

96

Adversity Cellars 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon Catastrophe, Napa Valley, California ($225)

Adversity is a label from vintner Russell Bevan. The 2022 Catastrophe is a bold, robust, and powerful wine, showing more structure than one might expect from a vintage marked by intense heat over Labor Day weekend. Yet here, the tannins are suave and polished, supported by fresh graphite minerality and a core of blackberry and black cherry fruit laced with sweet Asian spices—very much in line with Bevan’s The Twin Cabernet from the same year. Full-bodied, it offers a creamy fruit center and finishes long, with a full-bodied, chocolaty, cedarwood-spiced finish.

96

Adversity Cellars 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, The Twin, Napa Valley, California ($225)

Adversity is a label from Russell Bevan and Heidi Bevan. Those familiar with Bevan’s style know to expect wines that are big, bold, powerful, and lush, and in 2022, The Twin delivers just that. It builds in the glass with inky dark berry fruit and rich, toasty oak spice, joined by a pop of cinnamon and hoisin. On the palate, the wine gains intensity, revealing a chocolaty tannin richness before finishing with notes of wet slate, graphite, and loamy earth. It’s a bit of a rollercoaster—peaks and dips of richness balanced by a freshness factor that sneaks in on the finish. Quite a feat in the context of the challenging 2022 heat-driven vintage. Best enjoyed now and over the next five years.

90

Among the Giants 2022 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Goose Gap, Columbia Valley, WA ($20)

Big, bold, dynamic notes of wet slate and dark chocolate cedar. Plum skin tannins offer a pathway to its sturdy dark berry character.