Wine Reviews

93

Alexander Valley Vineyards 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County ($28)

While Cabernet Sauvignon leads the charge, the four other Bordeaux varieties are blended in, and the wine is aged in caves for 14 months. Bing cherries and cranberries are tart, with sweet tobacco and red tea. This is a well-priced, dignified red, with a woodsy finish amped by a fine acid structure.

94

As One Cru 2022 Pinot Noir, Stanly Ranch, Carneros Napa Valley ($50)

Savory and earthy, wispy notes of cigar leaf lingering on the palate, accompanied by fig and Porcini mushroom. Seasoned with exotic incense and black tea, it offers an extended finish of spiced cedar.

94

Belle Glos 2023 Dairyman Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($55)

Dense and tarry, with smashed black cherry and licorice taking the lead. A luxurious ride, with soy sauce, umami, and orange peel adding to a juicy finish, dotted with white pepper.

96

Belle Glos 2024 Clark & Telephone Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara Co ($55)

Dark cherries soaked in chocolate sweeten the palate. The rich contour of the wine’s suede mouthfeel saturates with sweet tobacco, black strap molasses, raspberries, and hibiscus. A superb vintage.

95

BV 2023 “Bond 71” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($60)

A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 4% Malbec, 4% Petite Sirah, and 3% other reds aged six months in 30% new French oak. Black raspberry, fennel, and dark chocolate are staged on a beefy platform. Tannins are sturdy yet supple, offering a gateway to graphite and cigar leaf. Luxurious, with juicy, ripe cassis on the finish.

91

Calculated Risk 2024 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Sonoma County ($59)

Beefy, with notes of iron and sandalwood. White peppered black cherries add zip to the palate, while the juicy finish leaves a trace of minerality behind.

96

Caliza 2023 Azimuth, Willow Creek District, Paso Robles ($82)

This blend of 41% Mourvèdre, 26% Grenache, 26% Syrah, and 7% Mataro is a Rhône variety lover’s dream. Bittersweet dark chocolate and licorice lead the parade of deeply layered flavors, cheered on by blackberry, graphite, clove-washed cured meats, and white pepper. Tannins are generous and suede-like. Backed by a fine acidity.

96

Caliza 2023 Kän’krēt Grenache, Willow Creek District, Paso Robles ($82)

With a unique production approach of 18 months in 59% concrete egg, 41% neutral French oak, 59% concrete egg, 25% 400L, and 16% 265L barrels, this 100% Grenache exhibited a multi-dimensional texture. Juicy, silky, aromatic, and mineral-toned, it was bursting with ripe cherries, pomegranate, and hibiscus. Cinnamon swirls through redwood, with a wisp of cumin and red tea.