GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

91

Paper Boat 2022 Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($20)

Situated in a sweet spot between Malbecs that offer little but ripe fruit and ones that layer on excessive oak, this is a very versatile rendition of the variety for stand-alone sipping or pairing with moderately robust foods. The juice was kept in contact with French oak staves for six months in steel tanks, which is a sensible method for imparting spicy nuances while retaining freshness of fruit. Concentration is excellent for a wine at this price, and so too is the wine’s overall balance.

96

Poderi Gianni Gagliardo 2019 Barolo, La Morra DOCG, Piedmont, Italy ($81)

Finely tuned, with sleek acidity, salted cherries, roses, and balsamic. Mid-point notes of orange zest and cinnamon are exceptional. Tannins are soft, with rich elegance.

91

Portlandia 2020 Red Blend, Columbia Valley, WA ($22)

A Cabernet Sauvignon dominant blend with Merlot and Syrah, aged 15 months in new and used French oak. Aromas of grilled meats, leather, molasses, and sweet fennel merge with black currants and chocolate. Round lush tannins and a juicy character enhance the experience.

92

Portlandia 2022 Rosé, Columbia Valley, WA ($17)

A 100% stainless steel fermented rosé of Syrah with exuberant notes of rose petals, geranium, and grapefruit zest on nose and palate. Texture is key here, with a bright acidity and a line of minerality that shows its inviting persona. Fresh and crisp with a bergamot whisper on the finish.

96

Psâgot M Series 2020 Homeland, Jerusalem Mountains, Israel ($60)

A stunning blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Shiraz, 6% Petit Verdot, and 6% Petite Sirah. Luxurious mouthfeel, with dusty cocoa tannins dotted with boysenberry preserves. Violets perk up a partnership of espresso and tilled soil.

91

Ramsay 2022 Chardonnay, California ($20)

Spiced sandalwood, lemon verbena, and vanilla bean create a clean, precise white at a great price. While the mouthfeel is unctuous, a fine acidity intercepts for a crisp, balanced finish.

93

Redbank 2021 Chardonnay, King Valley, Victoria, Australia ($25)

Aged sur lies, this is a luscious white with gardenia, honeysuckle, and lemon blossom. Finishes with crisp Asian pear, dried figs, and a dollop of vanilla wafer.

91

River Road 2021 Double Oaked Chardonnay, California ($17)

French and American oak play starring roles, with character players vanilla, pineapple, and lemon bar. A balanced performance!