Wine Reviews

92

Mollydooker 2021 The Boxer Shiraz, South Australia ($30)

In Australia, a left-handed boxer is called Molly Dooker. Aromas of dark chocolate and blue flowers permeate the glass. Ripe blackberry is bathed in mocha. With slate and licorice delivering an uppercut of ripe purple plum, the wine’s confident swagger enhances its creamy finish.

93

Muriel 2017 Fincas de la Villa Reserva, Rioja DOC, Spain ($22)

Streamlined mouthfeel, augmented by creamy red pepper and black cherry. Old world acidity maintains a freshness. Oregano, marjoram, and nutmeg season oak and dried roses.

94

Muriel Viñas Viejas 2014 Gran Reserva, Rioja DOC, Spain ($32)

Age certainly shows its beauty here, with dried lavender, balsamic, and wild strawberry. Striking acidity keeps it fresh, with a light cedar spice on the melting caramel finish.

91

Old Bridge Cellars 2020 Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia ($20)

Earth and salty minerality maintain the wine’s freshness. Sage and tart cherry are juicy with a slightly toasty finish.

91

Old Soul 2021 Folklore Red Wine, Lodi ($15)

A blend of Cab Sauvignon, Petit Sirah, Zinfandel, Petit Verdot, and Malbec.
Intense black fruit flavors of blackberry and blueberry, vanilla, oak, cloves, baking spices, chocolate, and black peppercorn. On the palate, rich cooked fruit flavors, baking spices such as cloves, cinnamon, vanilla, and a touch of leather.

95

On Q 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($85)

With some Petit Verdot added, this fleshy and luscious red caresses with suede tannins. Dark chocolate-covered violets and black cherry form a reined in “syrup” on the palate. An expansion of flavors increases intensity and complexity with a toasted almond-oak finish.

93

Opolo 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon , Paso Robles ($42)

This is the winery’s flagship expression, sourcing fruit from the Willow Creek estate as well as selected vineyards throughout the region. Aged 16 months in French oak, it offers a sumptuous entry with suede tannins. Almond-battered fudge, black cherry, and sweet soy sauce converge. Weighty, with a richness that gains finesse as it continues to evolve in the glass.

94

Opolo 2021 Rhapsody, Willow Creek District, Paso RObles ($50)

A rush of black cherries, espresso, creamy cherry pie, and licorice coat the mouth, fulfilling the richness factor. Feathered notes of violets and bittersweet dark chocolate show strength and texture, succumbing to a round body and toasted oak finish.