Wine Reviews

93

Lucas & Lewellen 2019 High 9 Pinot Noir, Goodchild Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County ($42)

Juicy and enigmatic, with wispy notes of raspberry and dried roses. Delicate on the palate with an inner strength. Tobacco and tomato leaf are savory, with red tea and vanilla lighting up the white peppered finish.

93

MacRostie 2022 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County ($28)

A beautifully crafted wine, pale straw color, refined, pronounced aromatics of pear, stone fruit, and vanilla. Ultra elegant style, nuanced yet highly expressive, ample weight on the palate, bright underlying acidity with well-integrated high-quality oak. A seamlessly smooth wine sourced from the exceptional sites of both Carneros and the Russian River Valley, including Sangiacomo, Ricci, Dutton and Martinelli. 77% was barrel fermented in French oak, 15% new oak. The remainder is cool fermented in stainless steel to lift the brightness of the final blend. Aged on the lees for six months with occasional lees stirring to a broader textural component. Partial ML.

91

Mercer Bros. 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, Washington ($20)

Solid density of color, deep core, youthful appearance, lovely aromatics. Notes of cassis, black fruit, savory, vanilla oak notes, with good intensity. Weighty on the palate, but balanced and harmonious, with well-integrated wood and as with many Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, the tannins lend firmness and definition on the back palate. Fourteen months oak aged, a combination of French and American wood. Outstanding value!

94

Merry Edwards 2021 Chardonnay, Olivet Lane Vineyard, Russian River Valley, Sonoma Co ($68)

Whole cluster pressed and aged sur lie nine months in (47% new) French oak, this heritage property [owned by the Pelligrini family] is home to these coveted grapes. Abundant, mouth-filling beauty with notes of crème brulée, lemon zest, and vanilla cedar.

96

Merry Edwards 2021 Pinot Noir, Meredith Estate, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($90)

Now organically farmed, this wine off Meredith Estate is an attention-getting, dynamic red with tropical flowers blooming start to finish. Black cherries gather in a concentrated “sauce.” Sweet and tart notes are accented by a well-placed salinity.

94

Merry Edwards 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($50)

Barrel fermented and aged sur lie for five months in (18% new) French oak, the wine glistens with Meyer lemon and honeydew. Pineapple, gardenia, and sweet basil line the palate, lending a zingy profile to a finish of salty minerality.

95

Mollydooker 2021 Blue-Eyed Boy Shiraz, South Australia ($60)

The Marquis family have been making wine since 1987. This Shiraz is named after Sarah Marquis’s son Luke, who travels the world promoting the business. Although it comes in at 16 percent abv, the wine shows balance in its intensity, with tamed notes of black licorice, graphite, and a bloom of violets. Mocha notes surround luscious black cherry, gracefully, while a prickle of pepper dots the tongue on the seamless finish.

96

Mollydooker 2021 Carnival of Love Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia ($90)

Winemaker Sarah Marquis crafts an intense, dark fruited Shiraz with spice, black pepper, and a hint of bacon. Blackberry and plum are lively and energetic like a bustling carnival with bright lights and multisensory expression – this is not a side show wine.