Wine Reviews

92

Chateau Franc le Maine 2016 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France ($40)

The vineyard property dates back to the 15th century, acquired by Philippe Bardet in 2008. A blend of 60% Merlot, with 24% Cabernet Franc and 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is an upright, structured, and bold red. Dried violets, slate, and blackberry reign. Athletic, with lean muscular lines.

96

Chateau Margene 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stella’s Vineyard, Creston District, Paso Robles ($120)

Aged 23 months in French oak, we taste the chalky minerality from Creston’s soils along with violets, black tea, and graphite. Notes of fennel and ripe plum align with refined, gritty tannins. A finish of elegance and power.

94

Chateau Pontet-Fumet 2018, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France ($40)

A decisively focused blend of 74% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Notes of charcuterie, olive tapenade, cigar leaf, and wild strawberry thread through tightly wound, structured tannins. Graphite aligns with a good acidity, lighting up the finish of soil and black tea.

89

Château Saint Jean d’Aumières 2020 L’Alchimiste, AOP Terrasses du Larzac, France ($30)

fruit, savory spice, cracked pepper note, dark roast coffee, and toasted coconut. Full bodied, weighty, and robust with an appealing rustic character. Moderate tannins, developed well with an hour of aeration. A blend of 45% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 15% Carignan.

96

CHEV 2022 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($80)

Michael Browne crafted a seductive Chardonnay offering alluring apricot nectar and white chocolate. A steely middle tames any richness, while the exotic incense of allspice, gardenia, and acacia pampers the palate.

95

CHEV 2022 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($80)

Buoyant, pillow-light texture, with mature and focused notes of black raspberry, molasses, and sarsaparilla. Even-toned, balanced, with a white pepper footprint angled at a toasty cedar finish.

96

CHEV Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County ($80)

A deluxe array of spiced rose petals, cinnamon, sweet basil, and pomegranate. Feather-down mouthfeel exudes bright notes of candy cane and cherry pie with just enough of an earthy foundation to peek through. Hibiscus perfumes nose and palate.

90

Crocodile Dandy 2023 Rosé, AOP Costières de Nîmes, France ($14)

Pale pink, with a youthful appearance. Short skin contact, cool fermentation to retain vibrancy, along with pronounced primary fruit, strawberry, raspberry, and watermelon. Good purity, floral notes, moderate intensity, medium bodied, tempered acidity. Nice rounded textural element, with a dry, good length on the finish. Made from Grenache and Syrah. Distinctive packaging.