Wine Reviews

95

Caelesta 2020 Block 6 Syrah, Templeton Gap, Paso Robles ($75)

Grapey notes succumb to black-peppered black tea and dark chocolate. Rich and ripe, with licorice and earth punctuating salted, cured meats. Great expression of this variety from Paso’s cooler sub-district.

95

Caelesta 2020 Parallax, Templeton Gap, Paso Robles ($75)

Immediate silky entry, followed by tongue-drying, dusty tannins that accent red cherry and red plum. This blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, and 18% Mourvèdre displays unearthed blueberry, sweet tobacco, and vanilla-kissed cedar. A creamy licorice finish is inspirational.

89

Cannonball 2022 Chardonnay, California ($16)

Very well-made wine, youthful bright appearance, good intensity primary fruit notes, pear, pineapple, citrus and stone fruit notes, medium bodied, smooth, polished style with just a bit of oak influence to introduce some added interest. Partial malolactic and lees stirring adds a rounded textural component.

91

Carmen 2023 Frida Kahlo Cabernet Sauvignon, Valle Central Chile ($15)

Black tea, chocolate graham cracker, and lavender spill forth in a flow of supple tannins. Big, robust notes of plum and back currant are gentled on the silky finish.

93

Carpineto 2021 Dogajolo, Tuscany IGT, Italy ($16)

An outstanding, affordable blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon would be perfect for a by-the-glass for lovers of Super Tuscans. Grapes are grown on dry-farmed hillside vineyards on the Carpineto estate. Tart cherry, plum, and lavender lead on nose and palate. Italian herbs season plush tannins. Delightful.

93

Cesari Jùsto 2020 Veneto IGT Rosso, Italy ($15)

Ripe fruit aromas of cherry and plum, plus a touch of fig from the light drying (appassimento style) of the grapes for 20 days. The blend of 60% Corvina and 40% Merlot shows flavors of cloves, black pepper, and lavender adding to the nice balance of acidity, tannins, and fruit.

94

Chalmer’s Family 2022 Mother Block Red Blend, Murray Darling, Victoria, Australia ($18)

An Italian-inspired blend of 62% Sagrantino, 17% Nero d’Avola along with Aglianico, Teroldego, and a few other lesser-known varieties. Ripe and dynamic, with high-toned acidity. Cherry and pomegranate are top notes, with coffee and dried, spiced roses as base notes. An earthy finish offers a dot of white pepper.

95

Chappellet 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($95)

Its vineyard home is on the slopes of revered Pritchard Hill, with its volcanic soils – hand-picked by André Tcheslistcheff for the Chappellet family in 1967 as an ideal spot. This youthful red has time yet to sprout its true colors. With an athletic, angular structure, its muscles are still forming. Slate, black plum, and dusty, dried lavender are enhanced by a formidable opulence. On the finish, the wine exudes mocha-covered cranberries, coating the palate.