Wine Reviews

91

Octopoda 2024 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Hills, Lake County ($17)

Graphite and espresso lead the way with back notes of toffee and tobacco. The wine maintains an image of bold concentration. Its juicy quality is certainly an attribute, washing over the palate with a woodsy finish.

90

Opolo 2024 Summit Creek Merlot, Paso Robles ($22)

A robust, ripe red with tobacco-stained tannins and dark chocolate espresso-covered cherries. Layered and muscular with Mediterranean herbs surrounding juicy black raspberry.

93

optik 2023 Chardonnay, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County ($40) 

Made with three clones—4, 76, and Mount Eden—from the Miller family’s famed Bien Nacido property, this Chardonnay aged 14 months in (20% new) oak displays plenty of cool-climate polish, from the nose of bruised apple infused with baking spice such as cinnamon and savory chamomile to the silky mouthfeel distinguished by caramel apple and preserved lemon. A soupçon of banana makes for a jazzy finish.

93

optik 2023 Petite Sirah, French Camp Vineyard, Paso Robles Highland District ($50)

Robust, teeth-grabbing tannins surround a field of violets and fennel. Wet stone is elevated by plum skin and soy sauce, with a spiced cedar finish.

96

optik 2023 Pinot Noir, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara Co. ($50)

Prickly pear, hibiscus, and Ranier cherries send a bight signal to the palate. White pepper and raspberry gelée are perked up by an ideal acid structure. From one of California’s – if not the world’s – most pedigreed vineyards, it ‘s demeanor is confident and fresh, with a mocha-raspberry finish and a hint of terroir.

95

Optik 2023 Pinot Noir, Solomon Hills Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara Co ($50)

Cherries soaked in cinnamon, with iron filings and an earthy frame create a lively, eye-opening, well-paced red. White pepper glazes over the palate, holing up notes of Rooibos tea and red beets, with a nod to sandalwood on the cooling finish.

95

optik 2023 Syrah, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara Co. ($50)

Winemaker Joey Tensley certainly has a way with Syrah, and from this vineyard it is certainly a super star. A coating of licorice and tarry plum demonstrates concentration and confidence. A line-up of fresh herbs and crushed boysenberry lengthens on the palate, with a dot of black pepper and a glide of sleek minerality.

92

Oya Pointe 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($17)

Startling grassy notes surrounded by lemon-lime sorbet and freshly squeezed grapefruit. Acidity revives with each sip, while mineral tones cleanse the palate.