Wine Reviews

93

Bowman 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley ($34)

An excellent example of a trend toward California Sauv Blanc that expresses the character of the variety without blaring it. Russian River’s cool climate shows in the wine’s refreshing acidity, but it isn’t sharp or overly tart, just as the bouquet is subtly herbal and grassy but certainly not pungent. Medium-bodied palate impressions are complex yet harmonious.

92

Bread & Butter 2022 Reserve Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($23)

Buoyant, pillow-soft mouthfeel engages with crystal-clear notes of pear, vanilla custard, and graham cracker. Well balanced.

92

Brian David 2022 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley ($55)

Unrelenting waves of minerality tangle with vanilla bean. Streamlined notes of peach and white pepper are platformed on butterscotch, which stretches to the long finish.

94

Caelesta 2020 Vega, Templeton Gap District, Paso Robles ($75)

A stunning 100% Grenache, aged 20 months in a mix of French barriques and puncheons. This is a palate grabber (let it sit for about 30 minutes until diving in) with cinnamon-raison, black cherry, and vanilla bean. Racy acidity brightens with orange peel and cranberry. A Chateauneuf-du-Pape approach, with California sunshine.

94

Calmel & Joseph, 2022 La Fabrique Carignan, IGP Côtes du Brian, Languedoc-Roussillon, France ($30)

A plot of 130-year-old vines produced grapes aged in flavor-neutral concrete vats for six months, letting the fruit hold center stage. Notes of red and black berries are accented with little whiffs of savory herbs and cracked pepper. Acidity and tannin stand in essentially perfect proportions to the fruit. A purported workhorse that shows itself a thoroughbred.

90

Carmel Road 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($18)

Very well crafted and quite versatile in style, this rings true to Cabernet’s reputation for rich, robust flavors while finishing with sufficiently soft structure. Aromas and flavors of blackberries and dark cherries are pure and very appealing, its firm tannins without any drying effect.

92

Casa Relvas 2020 Art Terra Amphora Tinto Red, Alentejano, Portugal ($24)

This wine is made from a blend of Aragonez, Moreto, and Trincadeira grapes. It has a bright ruby hue. Black fruits such as blackberries and plums, as well as eucalyptus are aromas that jump out of the glass. On the palate are flavors of prune, blueberry jam, white pepper, licorice, flint, and lavender. The tannins and acidity nicely balance out the fruit.

90

Castoro Cellars 2022 Estate Chardonnay, Paso Robles ($20)

Pale, youthful straw yellow color, and moderately intense aroma. Flavors of Granny Smith apple, peach, nectarine, showing no overt use of oak. It maintains purity and freshness, while medium/full on the palate, and well balanced with ample acidity.