Wine Reviews

92

Cline Cellars 2022 Hat Strap Chardonnay, Los Carneros, Sonoma County ($25)

Named for the device needed in securing a hat during the ubiquitous Carneros winds, this bright and shiny Chardonnay fields flavors of salted pineapple, vanilla brioche, and ripe peach. The lemon zest finish is accented by a breezy acidity. Sourced from the J. Poppe Vineyard on the winery’s estate.

95

Clos du Val 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($60)

A gallant entry of earth, roasted coffee, and minerality justify the wine’s kinship to Bordeaux. The blend of 86% Cabernet, with small percentages of the four other Bordeaux varieties is enhanced by California sunshine. Notes of plum, licorice-coated cassis, and saddle leather are prominent mid-palate. Bittersweet dark chocolate and cedar offers a determined, yet poised finish.

97

Clos du Val 2021 Yettalil, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley ($200)

Celebrating 50 years of the winery’s history off the Hirondelle Estate in Stags Leap District, proprietor Olav Goelet named the wine for his grandmother, who “was always planning for the future.” The blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 10% Malbec, 7% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot is absolutely luminous. An astonishing mouthfeel is silky and dramatic, with fresh boysenberry, vanilla, cassis-crème fraiche, and black tea tannins.
A garden ensues, filling the nose and palate with peony, hibiscus, sweet tobacco, Italian herbs, and dried roses. In its youth and glory, Yettalil shows stature and elegance with a wisp of chalky minerality on the graceful finish.

94

Clos du Val 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($55)

With the addition of 7% sémillon, this wine exhibits the gift of crystal clarity. Honeysuckle, lemon blossom, and salted caramel-covered pears are ignited by an electric charge of acidity. Mid-palate is gentled by a caress of melon that lengthens a well-styled finish of wet stone.

92

Complicated 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast ($17)

Mouthfilling and generous with supportive, supple tannins. Flavors of mocha, espresso, pastry, and boysenberry are rich and mouth-coating. Juicy and approachable with a lasting note of white pepper.

92

Complicated 2020 Red, Washington ($17)

A delicious blend of 51% Syrah and 49% Cabernet Sauvignon. Charred oak, and teeth-gripping, chewy cedar tannins make this wine all the more intriguing. Tobacco leaf and soy sauce see the savory side, with black fruits tempering its robust and yes, complicated persona.

90

Concha y Toro, 2022 Casillero del Diablo Chardonnay Reserva, Chile ($12)

The range that constitutes “everyday pricing” is a subjective matter, but $9 to $12 is probably in the ballpark for most wine lovers, who will find strong value in this on any day of the week. Fully ripe and just shy of full-bodied, it is satisfyingly deep in flavor without seeming overtly sweet or tricked-out with oak chips or any other additives. In brief, it tastes like $24 Chardonnay for half the price.

97

Cult by Beau Vigne 2021 13th Anniversary Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($150)

Tightly wound tannins create a motif of powerhouse intensity. Dried herbs, soy sauce, and slate add courage and conviction to the Cult. Black plum increases its complexity, enveloping spiced sandalwood on the finish.