Wine Reviews

96

Belle Glos 2022 Clark & Telephone Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County ($55)

Packed with ripe, juicy boysenberry, so luscious it tastes freshly picked. Preternaturally generous, with mint and dark chocolate with hints of sandalwood and clove incense.

96

Belle Glos 2022 Glasir Holt Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County ($55)

Maximum plush: a down pillow mouthfeel with Asian spice, crushed roses, and mulberry-mocha. Beautifully crafted, its earth tones matching a western sky with the depth and tase of mineral-driven soil.

94

Belle Glos 2023 Oeil de Perdix Rosé of Pinot Noir, Sonoma County ($25)

A spicy rosé with cherry incense, candied ginger, and spearmint. Orange peel and melon meld with a beautiful acidity. Minerality runs deep.

91

Bonterra 2022 Estate Collection Red Blend, Mendocino County ($22)

Full of flavor and fun with a notably animale edge, this smells and tastes much more like an Old-World wine than one from California. Comprised of 46% Petite Sirah, 41% Malbec, and 13% Zinfandel, it is intensely aromatic and very deep in flavor, with a fully-ripe and decidedly brambly character along with mildly assertive yeasty, earthy accents. Well suited to braised meats like lamb shanks, grilled veggies, or garlicky lamb shoulder.

91

Bonterra, 2022 Estate Collection Chardonnay, Mendocino County ($22)

Bonterra is famous for working organically, and this is quite dramatic in its fusion of oaky and fruity components. Scents of toast and woodsmoke meld nicely with rich fruit flavors recalling baked apples and tropical fruits, making this a great choice for flavorful and fleshy dishes like scallops or swordfish.

93

Bouvet Ladubay 2019 Tresor, Saumur, Loire Valley, France ($24)

On the lightly yeasty nose of this confident blend of Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay, lemon-lime veers toward yuzu while pear crops up dotted with kitchen herbs. The palate, for its creamy yet balanced part, takes a lively turn toward green apple and stone fruit such as yellow plum and apricot, finishing with refreshing hints of ginger and cucumber.

92

Bouvet Ladubay Tresor Rosé, Saumur, Loire Valley, France ($24)

Scents of brioche, raspberry, vanilla-poached fig, and a wealth of florals including rose and violet shimmer across this 100% Cabernet Franc. Juicy yet silky, the palate is in line with the nose while adding touches of peach, pomegranate, and peppery fennel to the mix.

93

Bowman 2020 Zinfandel, Sierra Foothills, CA ($36)

Here’s a serious rendition of Zinfandel with evident oak influence as well as 15.7% alcohol that is—impressively enough—barely evident. Sure, there’s lots of big, brambly fruit, but it shows no raisin-like notes and the wood melds very nicely with the fruit, which offers a big bundle of mixed berry fun.