Wine Reviews

92

Chandon NV Reserve Blanc de Blancs By The Bay, USA ($32)

Cool composure characterizes this 100% Chardonnay, 15% of which spends a brief interval in French oak before assemblage and secondary fermentation in bottle. Aromas of toast and both Anjou and Asian pear, mingled with intimations of sage and brûléed pineapple, carry over to the undulatingly smooth palate, where breezy minerality ushers in lime and burnt almond on the finish.

90

Chateau de Berne 2023 Romance Rose, IGP Mediterrannee ($19)

Pale pink, offering a youthful appearance. Wonderful primary fruit character; watermelon notes are immediately evident, with ruby red grapefruit and red fruit. Refreshing, lively, and pure character with ample acidity to keep it bright and fresh. Fermented dry, with nice length on the finish. Made from 40% Grenache Noir, 30% Cinsault,15% Syrah, and 15% Merlot.

92

Chloe 2023 Pinot Grigio, Valdadige DOC, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy ($18)

Lemon verbena, honeyed peaches, and a balanced acidity and mineral component display complexity. Floral notes are accented on the juicy finish.

91

Cline 2022 Rock Carved Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County ($30)

With small percentages of Merlot, Petite Sirah, and Alicante Bouschet, this full-bodied red shows off a perfume of crushed boysenberry and vanilla. Juicy and energetic, with lush tannins and vibrant blue and red fruit. Deep notes of mocha and plum converge as the wine opens up, with a structured soul.

96

Clos du Val 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($60)

The wash of elegant liquid across the palate offers a whisper of sleek tannins, guided by sweet earth, slate, purple plum and black olive. Mid-point savory notes of fig, toasted cedar, and black tea meld with heather and blackberries. Well structured and impeccably balanced.

95

Clos du Val 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($55)

Aged in stainless steel and neutral French oak, with 17% Sémillon added, it begins with focused aromas of lime zest, basil, and green tea. A cascade of floral tones parade across the mouth on a tightrope of acidity. Honeysuckle, candied ginger, and lemongrass are streamlined with a salty, stony finish.

91

Coltbridge Vineyards 2022 Chardonnay, South Australia ($11)

Here’s a relatively inexpensive Chardonnay that merits serious consideration solely on the basis of its quality. Medium-bodied, it offers fine balancing acidity thanks in part to a portion of fruit sourced from the cool Adelaide Hills, and just a touch of spice and toast from partial oak aging. Remarkable value.

91

Coltbridge Vineyards 2022 Red Blend, South Australia ($11)

Australia seems poised for a comeback in the American market, and this is just the sort of wine to lead the way with no-tricks deliciousness and a price that’s right. The color is deep but also shows some positive development that is reinforced by both the aromatic and flavor impressions. Neither thick nor sweet nor oaky, it is very drinkable while also proving surprisingly complex and interesting at its price point.