GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

96

Quinta do Vale Meão 2021, Douro DOC, Portugal ($120)

A velour-textured flow of black licorice and dried lavender is testimony to the make-up of this beautifully crafted blend of 53% Touriga Nacional, 40% Touriga Franca, with some Tinta Barroca and Tinta Roriz. Muscled with luxuriously appointed with a heady, plum liqueur-like texture. Sinewy and chewy, capturing a hint of burnt tangerine zest and walnut cedar that lingers on teeth and tongue.

89

Ramsay 2023 Chardonnay, California ($20)

Toeing the line separating rich from heavy, this satisfying Chardonnay features flavors of baked apples and orchard fruits accented with suggestions of caramel and vanilla. Its youth as a 2023 release works to its advantage for now, as the freshness of its fruit offsets the wood notes and keeps the aftertastes in balance.

92

Rascal 2023 Pinot Noir, Oregon ($15)

A radiant red color accompanies aromas of Bing cherry and ripe strawberry. The mouthfeel is energetic and refreshing. This is a quaffer made with precision, with pleasant notes of wild cranberry, bramble fruit and a subtle hint of bay leaf.

92

Rock View 2023 Reserve Chardonnay, Mendocino ($26)

Lush and creamy, with cinnamon toast and ripe pineapple. Buttered popcorn mid-palate is almost hedonistic but tamed thanks to a spark of fine acidity.

99

Rodney Strong 2020 Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County ($90)

This third single vineyard spans 141 acres and rises to 1,000 feet above sea level. The farthest north of the three, the vineyard is situated near Cloverdale, gifted with the warmest temperatures in Alexander Valley. Its western facing slopes enjoy plenty of sunshine. Relative to the other two, Brothers is the most powerful expression with black cassis and a Napa-esque density. From its pecan pie nose to a dollop of dark fudge and a splash of Worcestershire, the wine is powered by ripeness, an engine purring with graphite, used saddle leather, and blackberry in aspic.

94

Rodney Strong 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County ($24)

The winery’s first Sauv Blanc from Alexander Valley is a glistening beauty. Aged in stainless steel, 40% French oak, and one percent in a small tank that Winemaker Greg Morthole refers to as a “sideways concrete egg.”
The enhancement of a split of six percent Viognier and Semillon adds volume and aromatics, and the Sauvignon Musqué clone only intensifies the exotic nature of this complex white. Lemon sorbet and salinity whisper on first sip. Honeysuckle develops mid-way, lengthening the well-rounded palate feel. A squeeze of white grapefruit and ripe melon captivate on the finish. Sancerre-like with a dollop of California sun.

94

Rodney Strong Vineyards 2019 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County ($60)

Un-fined and unfiltered, this wine, as are others in the Reserve tier, sourced from individual lots from specially selected estate vineyards in Sonoma County, including the winery’s own Cooley Ranch, Rockaway, and Brothers. This wine establishes a defining nature of purity of Cabernet Sauvignon, with structure, density, aromas, and color. Chocolate-covered roses, cassis, soy sauce, heather, slate, and minty raspberry parade up and down the palate along smooth tannins. Mid-point notes of jasmine and coconut-chocolate lead to a finish of sweet earth.

96

Rodney Strong Vineyards 2019 Symmetry, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County ($70)

Crafted in the Artisan Cellar at Rodney Strong Vineyards, Symmetry is the ultimate nod to its name: the art of balance. The Bordeaux-style blend is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, with smaller proportions of the four other blending grapes, aged in 75% new French oak for 24 months. It also combines all the single vineyard wines and weaves it together with each vintage. The journey it took for this 2019 offering is a pattern of fleshy, perfumed complexity featuring the fresh herbs of a mountain forest, the intensity of dark and dried fruits, and the exotic floral notes of ylang ylang. Chocolate pecan and a whisper of dusty cedar linger on the silky finish. This is a pedigreed wine of style and substance.