Wine Reviews

92

Aquilini 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Red Mountain, Washington ($30)

An outstanding rendition of Sauvignon Blanc from a growing region dominated by reds, this shows exemplary purity of fruit without seeming like a one-note wine. Fermented and aged in neutral French barriques, it shows no overtly woody character but is very open and expressive, with a harmonious mix of citrus, melon, and orchard fruit notes. Dry but not austere, it shows excellent balance between fully ripened fruit and energetic acidity.

92

Aviana 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Vin de France ($20)

An elegant, dark shadowed red, possessing a seductive, satin-lined mouthfeel. Dark chocolate and woodsy coffee notes melt across the palate.

92

Aviana 2022 Red Blend, Portugal ($20)

Ripe, with well-balanced acidity and fruit, along with a gliding, seamless wash of mocha, sandalwood, black cherry, and white pepper.

91

Aviana 2022 Verdejo, Spain ($20)

Aromas of lemon bar, pine nuts, and chamomile lead to a sea breeze of salted Golden apple, honeyed pear, and a nutty mid-point. Its sleek mouthfeel is tuned to a graceful minerality and fine acid structure.

95

Bella Union 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($80)

With small percentages Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot, this exquisitely aromatic and textural red begins with a perfume of crushed violets and black cherry. Concentrated flavors of blackberry liqueur and vanilla sandalwood stream across chewy, velvet-lined tannins. Within its sculpted frame is sweet earth, dark chocolate, and roasted coffee.

95

Belle Glos 2013 Pinot Noir, Taylor Lane Vineyard, West Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, 1.5 liter ($225)

Beaming with dark fruit, are layers of raisin scone, violets, and sweet earth. Coffee oak addresses the palate mid-point, with a seamless mouthfeel. Notes of iron, plush plum, and sweet basil thrill on the luxe finish.

89

Bishop Pine 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($11)

In relation to its suggested price of $11, this is an impressively solid performer. The aromas are quite shy even when sampled from a high-quality glass made for Cabernet, but there are no “off” notes. Medium-bodied, it offers pleasantly sweet fruit flavors recalling Bing cherries and black plums with very soft tannins. Excellent value.

93

BÖEN 2022 Chardonnay, Monterey County, Sonoma County, Santa Barbara County, ($25)

Burnished pears, crème fraiche, green tea, and lemon verbena are flavors found in this distinguished tri-county Chardonnay. Bright acidity is reflected in the spiced banana-mango finish.