Wine Reviews

96

Silverado Vineyards 2021 GEO Cabernet Sauvignon, Coombsville, Napa Valley ($125)

Fruit is from the winery’s Mt. George Vineyard in southeastern Napa Valley – where Coomsbville’s cooler climate and volcanic, gravelly soils add depth to the wine’s eloquent character. Aged 18 months in French, American, and Hungarian oak (43% new), the name GEO is derived from the root word for earth and the name of its home vineyard. The sweet, mineral-based aromas of the terroir is unmasked, with added alluring scents of dark chocolate and black cherry. The flavors augment in intensity, with black olive, roasted coffee and a creamy roundness that gentles the largesse of these savory notes. Luscious from start to finish.

94

Silverado Vineyards Estate Grown 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($75)

Generously anointed with black raspberry ganache, enhancing a dusty cocoa mouthfeel. Tannins are round, supporting the ripeness of an abundance of blue fruit. Finishes with red beet and a swath of creamy vanilla oak.

95

Sirch 2021 Cladrecis Chardonnay, Fruili Colli Orientali DOC, Fruili Venezia Giulia, Italy ($55)

From an ancient viticultural area in the DOC, this wine offers nectar of melon, peach, and white cherries. Lusciously bathing the palate in a leesy array of sweet cream and basil, the flavors gain momentum as they surge together mid-palate. It finishes with dried pineapple and a salty touch of lemon verbena and pine nuts.

92

Smith Bench 2021 Pinot Noir, Monterey County ($20)

Delicious and rich, with milk chocolate cherries and briar. A pattern of sweet oak and baking spices interplay, making for an easy drinking, memorable Pinot Noir.

92

St. Francis 2022 Chardonnay, Sonoma County ($17)

The primary virtue of this wine is its pure, straightforward, un-manipulated flavor it offers, unlike so many tricked-out Chardonnay sfighting it out at price levels under $20. Though purity is the key, the pear and Golden apple fruit notes also show complexity from aging for 6 months in 20% new French oak barrels.

93

St. Francis 2022 Pinot Noir, Sonoma County ($22)

Finding Pinot that is both delicate and satisfying at $30 is an accomplishment, whereas such a find at $22 borders on astonishing. This offers pure notes of cherry, red raspberry, and pomegranate with a nice little whiff of spice from 20% new French oak. Neither candied nor astringent, this clearly results from a series of good decisions made on behalf of excellent fruit.

90

Stoneleigh 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($12)

Intense aromas of gooseberry, star fruit, and basil. High-toned acidity and mouth-puckering grapefruit is surrounded by green apple and just-cut grass. Perky and delicious.

90

The Ned 2021 Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand ($20)

On the deeper, denser side of the varietal spectrum, this Pinot invites you in with scents of cooked strawberry and raspberry before taking an intriguing turn toward sassafras and beet; likewise on the palate, touches of tomato leaf, soil, and white pepper counterpoint a melody of ripe, tangy strawberry and plum.