Wine Reviews

94

Sean Minor Invited Series 2023 Pinot Noir, Roberts Road Vineyard, Petaluma Gap ($75)

Already deeply delicious only a year after the grapes were still on the vine, this shows juicy, naturally sweet primary fruit recalling red and black cherries. Scents of vanilla and toast are very subtle but alluring, and a touch of wood provides welcome grip in the finish, but few tasters would guess that 50% of the French oak barrels were new. Amazingly good already, with years of development ahead.

95

Seiler Estate 2021 Cabermet Sauvignon, St. Helena, Napa ($175)

Deep color, well extracted, highly expressive aromas of blackberry, cassis, olive tapenade, and dark chocolate. Pronounced smoky oak that is seamlessly integrated into the full-bodied wine, yet very well balanced with an extended finish showing soft, ripe tannins. Well made from start to finish, the wine developed beautifully with about one hour of aeration. Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grown on the slopes of Glass Mountain, a volcanic summit below Howell Mountain. Aged in French oak, 60% new barrels.

100

Shimizu No Mai pure night Junmai Daiginjo Premium, 720 ml ($109)

This sake is set apart because of its labor-intensive and nurturing “Futa-Koji” fermentation method, which combines kneading, stirring, blending, and constant adjustments to the koji. A perfume of rose petals, white chocolate, pear, and peony grace the senses. Sumptuous and slick, the liquid lines the palate with a graceful dance of lemon blossom, creamed corn, and lychee. Purity reigns, with a whisper of candied pineapple and honeysuckle.

93

Shimizu No Mai pure snow Junmai Nigori Sake, 720 ml ($28)

Cloudy, with a polish of 65%, which over-exceeds its requirement. An unfolding of lemon chiffon, that develops into a creamy white rice character. Notes of cucumber and ginger add to its bolder profile.

95

Shimizu-No-Mai pure dawn, Junmai Ginjo Sake, 720 ml ($34)

Texturally broad; a sake with structure. Coats the mouth with lanolin, egg whites, vanilla bean, and sassafras. Fresh with exotic earth tones and floral notes that bloom with an umami creaminess on the finish.

97

Shimizu-No-Mai pure dusk, Junmai Daiginjo Sake, 720 ml ($39)

Featherlight mouthfeel, with jasmine, gardenia, and lime blossom. Delicate and satin-lined, with Anjou pear, Granny Smith apple and a finish of biscuit and marzipan.

90

Shimizu-No-Mai pure, Junmai Sake, 300 ml only ($13)

Scents of ripe pineapple and fresh linen are followed by notes of sweet white rice and an undertone of minerality. Crisp, clean finish with a wash of apple tart.

98

Silverado 2021 SOLO, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley ($180)

From a single vineyard, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Silverado Clone, designated as the Heritage Clone, creates this yearly masterpiece. Violets are intense, perfuming and sweetening the palate. Blue fruit is ripe, and tannins are broad and sleek. Tension builds with focus and power, while balance and elegance reigns.