Wine Reviews

95

Smith-Madrone 2021 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain, Napa ($65)

Grapes grown on a non-tilled, steep, dry-farmed mountain vineyard create a plush blend of 81.9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17.7% Cab Franc, and a fraction of Merlot. Aged 18 months in 65% new French oak, it shows black peppered dark plum, green bell pepper, sage, and mint for a spice box of flavor. At mid-point, blue fruit emerges with a noticeable creamy vibrancy and finishes with intensity.

96

Sonsierra 2018 El Rincón de Los Galos, Rioja DOC, Spain ($82)

A sensational single vineyard 100% Tempranillo, dramatic and dry. With tension and a slight grip, one tastes roses bathed in earthy, chocolate-coffee. Vibrant Luxardo cherries surge with a juiciness that cleanse the palate, with great acid structure that makes this a star when it comes to food-pairing. Its high elevation vineyard accounts for the wine’s intense nature.

90

Sonsierra 2019 Reserva, Rioja DOC ($13)

Blackberry and tobacco spread across the palate. This is a finely structured 100% Tempranillo that possesses a buoyant mouthfeel. Jammy fruit is intense and pleasing, adding dimension.

88

Sonsierra 2020 Crianza, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain ($8)

A value-plus, 100% Tempranillo, with notes of blueberry jelly and dusty baking spices. Tobacco and black tea meld with plum for an impactful finish.

89

Sonsierra 2023 Barrel-Fermented Viura, Rioja Alta, Rioja DOC, Spain ($9)

Nutty, with spiced vanilla sandalwood. The mouthfeel is unctuous, with a slick lather of lemon oil. Honeyed flowers are dotted with white pepper for a zesty finish.

90

Stel + Mar 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($20)

Aged three months in French and American oak and with a low abv of 12.7%, Winemaker Philip Zorn urges out bright, juicy fruit that flirts with the palate. A chorus of cranberry, just-ripened cherries, cocoa, and plum merges, with a spirited cinnamon finish.

89

Submission 2023 Chardonnay, California ($20)

Domestic Chardonnay that rings up very close to $20 seems like a rather crowded category these days, which suggests both popularity and sharp-elbowed competition. This competes well with good physical density and rich flavors recalling stone fruits along with a tropical note. Wood accents of spices and light smoke provide complexity that will help this stand out in a crowd.

89

Sunburst Cellars 2022 Chardonnay, Monterey County ($18)

Notably sweet with accents of vanilla and oak charring, it offers the key elements that many consumers hope for in Chardonnays at this price level, with just enough acidity to help freshen the finish.