Wine Reviews

93

Rodney Strong Vineyards 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County ($28)

Carmine-black hue, this appellation-based Cab is all free run juice and aids in refinement from no pressing. Aged in 100% (50% new) French oak for 18 months, it shows an elegantly sleek mouthfeel. Black cherry is slathered across the palate, with cocoa and hints of espresso and slate. As sturdy as it is graceful, acidity steels the tongue. The plush nature is an example of Alexander Valley’s present and future potential, without any herbal tones, it’s chewy, it’s just weighty enough, and the ripeness of the fruit is just right.

92

Rodney Strong Vineyards 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County ($25)

“This is the most important wine we make,” noted Seidenfeld. “And we work with people who care about where their grapes come from.” Fruit sourced from Alexander Valley to Knights Valley, Dry Creek to Russian River Valley and Cooley Ranch, influence the make-up of this label – one of the most ubiquitous in the line-up. All this and 100% French oak aging with a goal to make a world-class Cab at this price proved that the team has upped their game.
Plush, round, and fresh, red berries parade with red tea, hibiscus, and a hint of sweet basil. Complex and balanced, with a cocoa mint finish, it’s ready to pair with an array of cuisines.

94

Roederer Estate 2017 L’Ermitage Brut, Anderson Valley ($75)

Disgorged in January 2023 prior to another six months of aging before release, this blend of 52% Chardonnay, 46% Pinot Noir, and 2% Pinot Meunier is energetic and elegant, luxe and cool by turns. Fragrances of green and golden apple, Anjou pear, and toasted almond laced with yeastiness and faint smoke shift smoothly to the palate, whose mineral edge softens on the long finish.

93

Roederer Estate Brut, Anderson Valley ($32)

Finely wrought and sure-footed, this estate-grown blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir (with 10%–15% oak-aged reserve wine) proffers scents of baguette, citrus and citrus blossom, vanilla-poached pear, and hazelnut that harmonize with notes of green and golden apple, lemon balm, and subtle tarragon on the palate—itself gloriously silky, with round acidity and a scintillating finish.

90

Roshambo 2022 Pinot Noir, Sonoma County ($19)

) I shy away from quoting verbiage off back labels, but the characterization of this as “Lively and Unpretentious” is spot on. The fruit weighs in at the upper end of light-bodied, with minimal oak influence and fine purity. Notes recalling red cherries, strawberries, and a whisper of tart cranberry provide enduringly appealing flavors without any excess richness or wood tannin to intrude on the wine’s liveliness.

94

Round Pond Estate 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($85)

Elevated notes of toasty black raspberry, chocolate, and tobacco. The mouthfeel is luscious, with dots of white pepper, red beets, and boysenberry jam. Tannins are plush with a tingle of cinnamon spice on the finish.

90

Ryder Estate 2022 Merlot California ($15)

Medium deep red core with some fade at the edge of the glass. Ripe plum and blackberry notes, with medium weight. Round, soft character on the palate; an accessible style that shows good fruit purity with just a bit of underlying oak notes.

89

Sadler’s Well 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles ($18)

Medium deep color, vibrant red fruit aroma. Red raspberry, cherry, vanilla, fennel, and a savory spice note. Just enough oak to add some complexity and range, very well balanced, expressive, round, polished style with good length on the finish.