GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

93

Cusumano 2023 Angimbé, Terre Siciliane IGT, Italy ($23)

A blend of 70% Insolia and 30% Chardonnay with a low ABV of 12.5%, this wine is named for the woods near the vineyard where these grapes grow and features a Vinolok glass stopper. Salted lemon meringue and hazelnut form a bond to spotlight the wine’s pretty profile and high-toned acidity. Lined with vanilla custard, the palate delivers a lengthy finish.

94

Cuvaison Estate 2022 Chardonnay, Los Carneros, Napa Valley ($35)

Based on its level of detail and capacity for improvement with additional time in bottle, this is better than most $50 Chardonnays even without price considered. Barrel notes recalling baking spices, cloves, and natural vanilla are prominent but very appealing and in balance with the fruit, which is rich and ripe but energized by lively, well-integrated acidity. Impressive wine from an advantageously cool vintage.

95

Cuvaison Estate 2022 Pinot Noir, Los Carneros, Napa Valley ($45)

There’s a “house style” at Cuvaison that’s exemplified in this Pinot, which was so carefully grown and made that it is already seamlessly, obviously delicious. A longstanding verity is that superb wines are superb from the outset, and this is one of them.

93

Cuvaison Estate 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Los Carneros, Napa Valley ($28)

Although this wine expresses unmistakable varietal character, its herbal aromatics are restrained rather than pungent, its fruit is very nicely ripened with a balance of citrus and melon flavors, and its acidity is refreshing but not overly tart. Sauvignon Blanc is successful but often still polarizing, so finding a rendition that will please almost everyone is quite valuable.

89

Dixie & Bass 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, WA ($16)

This Cabernet (with Merlot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc rounding out the 86% Cab) rolls across the palate with ripe notes of cassis, toasty vanilla, and dried oregano. It all finishes with a nod in the direction of cafe mocha, making it well suited to braised meats.

92

Double Canyon 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, WA ($25)

Distinctive for its origins in Washington rather than being generic or formulaic, this Cab offers pleasantly leafy aromas and medium-bodied fruit with notes of dark cherries and moderately ripened berries. Structure from oak and tannins is proportional to the fruit’s intensity, enabling this to pair successfully with anything from a roast chicken to lamb chops.

92

Dow 2020 Vale do Bomfim Red, Douro DOC, Portugal ($15)

A dry table wine made from a blend of classic Port varieties, this medium-bodied, showing delicious red and black fruit tones with excellent purity and proportionality. If tasted blind, it could be mistaken for a $25 wine from the southern Rhône. Wisely released with some bottle age, this is ready to rip and an amazingly complete wine for $15.
Premium Port Wines

92

Dow 2022 Vale do Bomfim White, Douro DOC, Portugal ($15)

A dry table wine made from a blend of classic Port varieties, this medium-bodied, showing delicious red and black fruit tones with excellent purity and proportionality. If tasted blind, it could be mistaken for a $25 wine from the southern Rhône. Wisely released with some bottle age, this is ready to rip and an amazingly complete wine for $15.