Wine Reviews

90

François Montand Brut White, Vin Mousseux de Qualité, France ($13)

This traditional-method blend of Colombard, Ugni Blanc, and Chardonnay provides plenty of polish for the price. Aromas of lime and pear-apple crisp converge with hints of hazelnut skin and wet stone before appearing with lemon curd on the airily creamy palate, where a slight suggestion of green olive gives the finish a surprise twist.

89

Frey 2021 Organic Merlot, California ($20)

Medium deep purple/red color with lifted plum, cherry and red raspberry aromatics. Medium full on the palate, well structured, soft, accessible style. Moderate length on the dry finish.

89

Frey 2022 Organic Viognier, Mendocino ($20)

Slightly deep yellow color, expressive and lifted aromas of peach and nectarine very telltale of Viognier. Good weight on the palate with a textural note that brings a taut character on the palate, moderate acidity, good purity, the wine shows better when closer to a cool room temperature. Made for near-term consumption.

92

Gehricke 2022 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($29)

Jasmine-scented oak offers a lively perfume and carries through to the palate. White pepper cools notes of pineapple and apple tart. Striking acidity lifts flavors of vanilla and crème brulée. Finishes with a cinnamon-apple elegance.

92

GlassMen 2023 Chardonnay,Sonoma County ($35)

Apple, peach and pear aromas carry through to the palate. Good purity and intensity with a round, smooth, elegant, and polished mouthfeel with enough acidity to keep it focused on the palate. Produced in a combination of neutral and new French oak.

93

GlassMen 2023 Pinot Noir, Sonoma County ($35)

Youthful appearance, very pleasant, lifted, savory strawberry and cherry notes with a bit of well-integrated oak. Good palate presence, with round, ample volume and bright acidity to keep the wine fresh. It maintains an extended back palate and slightly grippy tannins. The wine develops nicely with aeration.

91

Grant Burge 2023 Paso Robles Ink, Paso Robles, CA ($20)

Cab from an Aussie producer made with Paso Robles fruit makes this seem like a fruit bomb even before seeing the name “Ink,” yet this shows more gentle manners than expected. Wisely released early from the 2023 vintage, the primary fruit notes keep this seeming juicy rather overblown, with soft texture and a hint of sweetness making this easy to enjoy on its own but also up to the challenge of robust foods.

92

Grant Burge Cameron Vale Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa, Australia ($16)

There’s a bit of Shiraz blended with the named variety of Cabernet Sauvignon in this wine, but the predominant character is Barossa, expressed in the form of very deep and persistent flavors that somehow retain a sense of freshness. Only 10% new oak and a pleasantly minty aromatic note contribute are helpful in that regard, along with very soft, fine-grained tannins. Lots of bang for the buck in this.