GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

94

Daou Family Estates 2022 Bodyguard Chardonnay, Paso Robles ($40)

Woodsy notes are followed by coconut-marshmallow and lemon cookie. Splashy and vivacious, this ultra-elegant Chardonnay possesses structure and balance. It maintains a rich character without being over-indulgent: which means great balance.

94

Daou Vineyards 2023 Bodyguard Red Blend, Paso Robles ($40)

Plush, velvet-lined tannins are streamlined as they brace up against the wine’s inherent chalky nature. Boysenberry, plum liqueur, violets, and dark roasted coffee beans add depth to an already lacquered and layered red.

99

Daou Vineyards 2023 Soul of a Lion, Adelaida District, Paso Robles ($150)

Velvet-lioned tannins manage to have the power to hold on to teeth and palate. A majestic red that comes in with a roar, gentled by its poise and presence. The blend of 76% Cabernet, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Petit Verdot exhibits notes of graphite, violets, blackberry, tobacco, and coffee bean. It’s power levels off to a refined, harnessed purr for an ideal finish.

93

District Series 2025 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($21)

Ethereal notes of lemon meringue, tangerine sorbet, and balanced acidity bring out a wine of graceful subtlety.

97

Domaine de la Rivière 2023 Pinot Noir, Red Barn Block, Russian River Valley, Sonoma Co ($90)

An artful mosaic of soil, red raspberries, cinnamon, candied apple, and spiced red tea. An inner light from a surge of acidity and gem-like mineral tones converge from mid-palate to finish.

96

Domaine de la Rivière 2023 Pinot Noir, Two Forces Vineyard, Russian River Valley, Sonoma Co ($90)

Dense notes of strawberry and vanilla show earthy undercurrents. White-peppered licorice, hibiscus, and cranberries are cooling factors, while forest floor and Mediterranean herbs create a savory finish.

95

Domaine de la Rivière 2023 Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($90)

Plushness without ponderousness appears to be a hallmark of the Rivière style, and this Old Wente clone Chardonnay, aged for 11 months in (29% new) French oak, is a sterling example. Bright fragrances of lime and green apple mingle with richer ones of gardenia and pastry cream, presaging a palate that’s generous yet fresh and clean with lime, lemon, and white peach. Also characteristic of the producer is a lengthy finish, in this case finely marked by white pepper and stony minerality.

90

don’t tell mum 2024 shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia ($20)

If we were in the habit of gulping wine, we’d call this Shiraz from the family behind Mollydooker “gulpable”: It’s ripe and plenty smooth, with aromas and flavors of smashed boysenberry and dark cherry that flirt with dark chocolate and cigar box as well as hints of sandalwood and iron.