GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

95

J. Lohr 2022 Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena, Napa Valley ($60)

A dedicated Napa Valley wine for J. Lohr, this vintage demonstrates opulent tannins that relay a message of elegance, from its statuesque build to its juicy mouthfeel and depth of flavor. Notes of coffee bean, plum liqueur, sweet tobacco, violets and ripe black cherry are expressive. Aging in French oak for 18 months is defined by the creamy gloss on the finish.

90

J. Lohr 2024 Bay Mist White Riesling, Arroyo Seco, Monterey ($13)

White flower petals, Key lime, and sweet basil glide across the tongue. Baked apple and tangerine marmalade are vivid flavors from mid-point to finish.

92

Jaume Serra 2021 Brut Nature, Cava, Spain ($20)

Faintly earthy yet fine-tuned aromas of brioche, pear, confit lemon, salted almond, and wet stone set the tone for this brut nature, which, if not exactly rich, is neither austere, with a touch of cream to balance its zesty citrus flavors and thrill of acidity.

91

Jaume Serra Cristalino Brut, Cava, Spain ($11)

Accented by a slight yeastiness, the scent of honey-drizzled green apple sets the tone for this clean, sprightly Cava. Citrus zips across the mouth, led by lemon flesh and zest, sparking a bit of green almond on the finish.

89

Jaume Serra Cristalino Rosé Brut, Cava, Spain ($11)

Cranberry, red currant, and nectarine make for a bouncy bouquet, while strawberry and pink grapefruit assert themselves on the bright palate, edged with white pepper. This straightforward sipper smacks of summer.

92

Jaume Serra Pinot Noir Rosé Brut, Cava, Spain ($20)

This sunset-colored Cava of 100% Pinot Noir is as bold as its hue suggests. Toast and roasted strawberry lead on both nose—which also suggests cranberry and pine nut—and animated palate, where they’re bolstered by a complex mix of brulêed grapefruit, red plum, pomegranate, and rooibos tea.

95

Kate Arnold 2022 Hirschy Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton, OR ($65)

This single vineyard release from Kate Arnold offers more of everything than the entry-level Oregon bottling—aroma, complexity, depth of flavor—yet it displays similar stylistic restraint even it its more generous profile. Red fruit notes predominate but are enhanced by undertones of baking spices and cola, with tannic structure that will enable this to develop over time but don’t assert more than gentle grip now. Impressive, but without trying too hard.

92

Kate Arnold 2022 Pinot Noir, Oregon ($28)

For those who appreciate Pinots that are light, fresh, and delicate in flavor impact, this is an excellent choice at a very fair price. It is quite expressive in aroma and flavor, with notes recalling red cherries and berries along with lightly spicy notes that give the wine more complexity than one would expect in relation to its modest weight and price. Very well suited to fish, poultry, or white meat dishes.