Wine Reviews

95

PIAFF Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France ($210)

As intriguing as it is elegant, this hand-harvested Chardonnay is redolent of bruised apple, dried fig, cinnamon-dusted pastry, praline, and a mouthwateringly saline minerality that also streaks the svelte palate, creating tension with lilting acidity. The flavor of golden apple practically glows, attended by notes of toast and the preserved lemon that distinguishes the finish.

93

PIAFF Brut Rosé, Champagne, France ($110)

The nose on this blend of 50% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier, and 20% Chardonnay is so pretty: Wild strawberry and red apple gleam steadily amid flickers of marzipan and rhubarb. In the mouth, gorgeously tart acidity eases off to reveal a lithe body with additional flavors of raspberry and nectarine before a bit of cherry pit and grapefruit rind punctuates the finish in refreshing fashion.

94

PIAFF Brut, Champagne, France ($75)

This blend of 35% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, and 30% Pinot Meunier from the Vallée de la Marne is full of life. Yeasty and zesty, it teems with notes of peach and apricot nectar and honey-drizzled apple on both the nose and the silky, slightly rounded palate, where bouncy acidity yields to hints of pastry with lime curd on the finish.

91

Pighin 2023 Pinot Grigio, Collio DOC, Italy ($30)

This is a somewhat denser, richer expression of Pinot Grigio in which flavors of grilled pineapple and persimmon precede a finish that fans out with notes of guava, blanched almonds, and saline minerality. It’s very versatile at the table, but just as delicious on its own.

89

Pighin 2023 Pinot Grigio, Friuli DOC, Italy ($20)

A surprisingly silky texture carries notes of springtime flowers and mashed plantains, with just a touch of mineral hovering at the edges. Enjoy this alongside white meats, flaky fish, and simple pasta preparations, like aglio e olio.

90

Pighin 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Friuli DOC, Italy ($20)

Taut and lively, this estate-bottled Sauvignon Blanc benefits from a mineral spine that cuts through flavors of grapefruit, passionfruit, and fresh herbs. A quiet lemon blossom lift layers the citrus-pith and tropical-fruit finish.

96

Pina 2021 Capponi Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County ($50)

This offers yet another object lesson in the excellence of the 2021 vintage for Cabernet in California’s North Coast appellations. It packs plenty of punch with dark toned notes of blackberries and black cherries as well as a subtle red fruit note recalling plums, with spicy oak lending nicely integrated complexities that aren’t blunted by any tannic astringency. Includes 16% Malbec and 4% Merlot.

95

Pina 2022 Low Chardonnay, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley ($45)

Priced to play in the big leagues, this justifies its price and then some, beginning with a bouquet featuring scents of roasted nuts, ripe orchard fruits, and baked apples. The fruit notes echo on the palate, with firming in the finish from aging in 50% new French oak. Lively acidity keeps everything fresh through the finish, making this enjoyable now, but it will be ever better during the coming five years. Serious juice.