GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

95

Aperture Cellars 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County ($50)

Striking chalky minerality prowls around summer pear, Meyer lemon, and honeysuckle. Crème brulée exhibits the wine’s richness, with the presence of mango and gooseberry. Mouthwatering acidity ensues. Divine.

97

Argyle Winery, 2014 Extended Tirage Brut ($85)

A remarkably complex sparkler that compares favorably to some prestige Champagnes costing twice as much, this remains very fresh and energetic while also seeming creamy and luxurious due to a decade of aging on yeast lees. Flavors recalling poached pears and baked apples are accented beautifully by suggestions of fresh brioche and toasted nuts.

95

Argyle Winery, 2023 Nuthouse Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($50)

Argyle has been on a tear lately, releasing terrific table wines as well as sparklers. This is one of them, with medium-plus body, spicy and toasty oak notes lend accents in a precisely measured way, and with acidity that freshens the pure fruit without any unintegrated tartness. Impressively well grown and made.

95

Auteur 2022 Pinot Noir, Balinard Vineyard, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($85)

Roses and tart cherries show elegance, with cinnamon-cedar as a backdrop, but ultimately, this Pinot Noir exhibits a gravitas of mouthfeel that goes beyond a flavor profile. Acidity is perfectly balanced with fruit, and earth tones are more ethereal, like wet stone rather than an ode to soil and mushroom. This wine displays the grace of nature.

95

Auteur 2023 Chardonnay, Bacigalupi Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($65)

Exacting and focused, its Meyer lemon notes crystalline and clean. A rush of crushed chalk aims at mid-palate, with notes of sassafras, honeysuckle, and yellow apple. Farmed organically with native yeast fermentation. Aged sur lee with bâttonage for six months. Sleek.

94

Balverne Estate 2019 Forever Wild Malbec, Chalk Hill, Sonoma County ($45)

Expressive and elegant, with a creamy base. Jalapeño-kissed plum makes an exciting impression, followed by dark chocolate and espresso. Linear minerality weaves its way through violets and brambly herbs, creating a distinct, mouthwatering Malbec.

93

Balverne Estate 2021 Forever Wild Zinfandel, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($30)

Cherry bark, mulberry, soy sauce, and black tea form a union of complex, dramatic flavors. Savory, with a dot of white pepper and sweet tobacco on the silky finish.

95

Balverne Estate 2022 “Forever Wild” Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($35)

Aromas of lemon sorbet, vanilla icing, and night jasmine are startling. A luxurious sipper, glossy and clean. Jasmine and white chocolate shine with refreshing acidity. Passionfruit, MacIntosh apple, and marshmallow linger on the graceful, lithe finish.