Wine Reviews

99

Chateau St. Jean 2022 Cinq Cépages, Sonoma County ($130)

The five Bordeaux blending grapes give this wine its name, a true icon in California winemaking. From its inky black-carmine hue to its dusty, teeth-gripping nature, it’s a muscle-bound athlete. The dynamic foundation of graphite and new leather, wrapped in plum skin, espresso and violets gives a view into its deep soul.

98

CIRQ 2022 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($175)

Vintner Michael Browne’s circus background was the inspiration for the name CIRQ, and an adult ticket is required to gain access to this rapturous performer. The liquid goes deep, with notes of Devil’s Food cake, cassis, and black tea. Memorable, with that distinct forest floor-terroir scent and taste. The finish is ravishing, lengthy and polished, laced with violets and blueberry.

91

Cline Family Cellars 2023 Chardonnay, Mendocino & Sonoma Counties ($15)

Aromas: Lemon sorbet, salted pears, vanilla
A whisper of powdered lemon-vanilla marshmallow is followed by salty stone sidled up against brightly lit acidity. A seasoning of rosemary and dill adds extra complexity.

93

Cline Family Cellars 2023 Fog Swept Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County ($30)

Cinnamon cranberry sits on a pillow-light mouthfeel, with fresh raspberries, parchment, and rose petals. Framed by white pepper and brilliant acidity, rich sunshine pushes through its earth-laden core.

92

Cline Family Cellars 2024 Dry Rosé of Mourvèdre, Contra Costa County ($15)

Aromas: Orange peel, wet stone
Rose petals and strawberries glisten, with minerality as its foundation. Juicy and tart, with peony and roses peeking out on the finish.

94

Cline Family Cellars 2024 Shifting Tides Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County ($30)

Aromas: Mango, gardenia, tangerine blossom
From its most expressive nose to its papaya greeting, fresh and sweet, this Sauvignon Blanc had our team on its feet with excitement. Acidity is bracing and clean, while the mouthfeel is steely with gem-like clarity. It finishes with traces of linen and Key lime.

91

Crossfork Creek 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, WA ($20)

Notably more elegant and less weighty than most Cabernets from California’s North Coast appellations, this nevertheless offers abundant flavors of dark berries and cherries that seem indicative of a harvest that was perfectly timed. Accents derived from oak are very well integrated, and ripe, fine-grained tannins frame the wine’s fruit component without obscuring it. Excellent value here.

90

Crossfork Creek 2022 Merlot, Yakima Valley, WA ($20)

A very pleasant rendition of Merlot, this offers a reminder of why the variety was a candidate to become Washington State’s calling card variety before the film “Sideways” undercut Merlot’s popularity. It is soft in texture as expected, but with impactful fruit flavors of dark plums and berries. The tannins arrive late in the wine’s string of sensory impressions, but they offer enough grip to frame the fruit.