GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

93

XYZin 2023 Old Vines Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County ($40)

An elegant contender, with 15% Petite Sirah from the Rockpile AVA, its amplified tannins show the wine’s inherent structure. But, like a ballet dancer, they are composed and well defined. Blueberry gelée and plum gloss over the palate, with back notes of mocha and lavender.

95

Yacoubian-Hobbs 2022 “Sarpina” Areni, Rind, Vayots Dzor, Armenia ($50)

Mineral-rich soils are reflected in finely delineated tannins and a seamless, steely mouthfeel. Plump blue fruit amps the wine’s energy and verve, while wild dried herbs bring added texture. Ultimately, its juicy, fruity persona is what is most desirable.

94

Yacoubian-Hobbs 2022 Areni, Rind, Vayots Dzor, Armenia ($35)

A thrilling wine, with wild strawberry and vanilla cream, dotted with spiced red tea, tomato leaf, and red beets. Acidity reigns supreme; lifting rose petals and mulled raspberries to a beautifully balanced level. Sensational.

95

Yacoubian-Hobbs 2022 White Blend, Aghavnadzor, Vayots Dzor, Armenia ($30)

Made from the Voskehat variety on high-altitude, rocky soils, stainless-steel tank fermented and aged nine months. Nutty aromas, with pear tart, vanilla crème, and elderflower. Silky on the mouth, it washes over the palate with tangerine, apricot nectar, and chamomile flower. As it progresses, the floral flavors bloom, accompanied by spiced fig and white chocolate.

96

Yesod 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Edcora Vineyard, Atlas Peak, Napa Valley ($200)

Muscle-bound, with deep soil notes filled with graphite, desiccated violets, espresso, and blackberry. Bound by spiced cedar and a tarry middle, the palate is lifted by arching tannins, this is mountain fruit at its core.

99

Yesod 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Padis Vineyard, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley ($250)

Tarry and concentrated, with Devil’s Food cake and black cherry surrounded by velvet-lined tannins. Elegant and chewy, with fine oak integration rounding out, softening, and ultimately lengthening, the spiced finish.

90

Zephara 2024 Cabernet Sauvignon (made with organic grapes), CA ($17)

This is a wine with serious tannic structure for a Cabernet in its price range, and consequently an unusually good choice for those seeking a relatively affordable partner for robust foods when cost is an issue. Many producers use some residual sugar to buffer the tannins in a wine such as this, but a bit of dietary fat in a grilled steak will perform the same function well.

98

Acumen 2022 PEAK Cabernet Sauvignon, Edcora Vineyard, Atlas Peak, Napa Valley ($175)

When you have a vineyard named for the six-carat diamond of renowned fame for its reputation of being the largest of its kind in the world, there’s a lot to live up to. And after tasting the majestic fruit that comes off this mountain estate at 1,600 feet in elevation, we can attest to its brilliance. While diamonds and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes belong to different realms, one of natural beauty and the other of sensory experience, they each hold a special place in esteemed value. Stunning aromas of s’mores over a campfire lead to blackberries and violets bursting out of the ground, sharing space in an herb garden. Rocky, ashy mineral tones persist, aligned with plum skin tannins. This is a luscious red, ever-changing in the glass.