GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

97

Veuve Clicquot, La Grande Dame 2018, Reims, France ($195)

With a freshness undiminished by its largesse (and vice versa), the 25th vintage of La Grande Dame—a blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay—is simply gorgeous as intense sensations of apple and pear lead the way to tangerine and lime flesh and peel, nectarine, pink ginger, a touch of strawberry, and subtleties of toffee-nut bread and spice. Its lilting cadence is punctuated by a saline streak that only elongates the resounding finish.

94

Vignamaggio 2017 Merlot di Santa Maria, Greve, Chianti, Toscana IGT, Italy ($84)

Coffee and spice surround notes of ripe cherry and pipe tobacco. Moha and cedar are brightened by an inherent acidity. Aged in French barriques for 18-24 months and in bottle for another eight months.

95

Vignamaggio 2017 Monna Lisa, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, Toscana DOCG ($74)

A small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon is added to Sangiovese, and this full-bodied red exhibit notes of brandied cherries and brown-sugared coffee beans, surpassing expectations of quality. Racy acidity sparks the palate, while notes of balsamic and new leather lengthen on the finish.

93

Vignamaggio 2021 Terre di Prenzano, Chianti Classico DOCG, Toscana, Italy ($45)

Sour cherry and a racy acid structure bedazzle the palate. Fresh, with an inner tension, its juicy nature gives way to lavender and balsamic.

94

Viña Cobos 2020 Vinculum Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina (50)

Aromas of brown-sugared plums lead to flavors of coffee-cedar. Juicy black currant collects momentum on the palate with a base of violet-dressed cigar wrapping and soy sauce. Sturdy structure with a fresh finish.

93

Whitehall Lane 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($56)

Spiced sandalwood, cigar leaf, dark roast coffee, and boysenberry unite for a layered array of stylized flavors. Bold in its demeanor, the “elegant factor” is demonstrated through its release of tension on the juicy finish.

93

Whitehall Lane 2021 Merlot, Napa Valley ($40)

Ripe black cherry lights up cloves and cardamom, enunciating its juicy nature with a soy sauce-umami salinity. At mid-palate, attention is drawn to a coca-cinnamon-cedar finish.

97

X Winery 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford, Napa Valley $70

The bouquet is expressive and even poetic, with herbs and savory spices and an earthy quality evocative of a tranquil forest. The grapes were hand-harvested from small lots, then aged for 21 months in new and used French Oak. The resulting texture is refined and the bright red strawberries and cranberries coalesce seamlessly with cola and spice. Taut and tempting, it is a delight to revisit.