Wine Reviews

93

Vidal-Fleury 2023 Côtes du Rhone Blanc, Rhône Valley, France ($20)

A blend of 55% Grenache Blanc, 25% Clairette, and 20% Viognier, it is weighty on the palate, with an unctuous, peanut brittle creaminess. Thanks to balanced acidity, the richness of its apricot nectar viscosity is reined in, offering up a lovely wash of stone fruit. Mid-palate notes of tangerine peel and mango, along with a subtle herbaceous quality emerges, with a finish of orange blossom.

95

Viña Carmen 2023 Maria’s Legacy Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, D.O. Maipo, Chile ($25)

A silky entry, devised of dark chocolate, melting and seductive. Riper than the Gran Reserva Cab, with notes of succulent Luxardo cherry and sweet cedar. Tannins are dry and chalky, demonstrating backbone and upholding a vibrant, balanced acidity. The palate is soothed by a delicate demeanor, with elegance intact.

96

Viña Cobos 2022 Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina ($60)

Rich aromas of vanilla boysenberry lead to a sensational mouthfeel, saturated with black cherry cocoa and crushed hibiscus. Creamy, with a spiced, brambly tone, red tea leaves creating a unique texture. A most luxurious Malbec.

94

Viñedos de Sonsierra 2020 Viñedo Viejo, Rioja DOCa, Spain ($42)

This Spanish red has aromas of dill, fresh mint, dark cherries and a soupcon of hoisin. Spice forward, the peppery bitterness offers a perfect complement to food. Taut and balanced like a tight-rope artist, the tannins are muscular and the finish is savory.

94

Viñedos de Sonsierra 2023 Viñedo de Altura, Rioja DOCa, Spain ($40)

The brilliant ruby color cannot be ignored. The body is juicy, full and soft. The subtle floral notes succumb to the rich raspberry, plum and cherry with a hint of licorice. This Tempranillo is accessible yet contemplative

91

VIV Sparkling Brut, California ($20)

Soft scents of white peach and lime blossom waft from the glass before alighting on a palate that’s lemon-zesty yet so light on its feet it’s almost delicate, even as a bit of creaminess develops on the finish with a hint of almond. Composed of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Monterey County, it’s a mighty fine value.

93

Wente Family 2024 Louis Mel Sauvignon Blanc, Central Coast ($18)

It was Louis Mel who brought cuttings Sauvignon Blanc cuttings to California from Chateau d’Yquem in the 1880s. Tangerine and lemon sing their aromas in soprano harmony. Buttercup and white flower petals take the spotlight in sunshine with lemongrass and sweet basil. The wine carries all this on a line of crisp acidity.

92

Wente Family Vineyards 2024 Pacific Mist Pinot Grigio, Central Coast ($18)

This is a new label for the Wente Family Estates, a jazzy Pinot Grigio cool-fermented in stainless steel. Ripe pear and green apple are complemented by bright acidity and a lively mouthfeel. Almond and honey notes show its depth, with a long finish of sweet basil and salty lanolin.