GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

93

STEL + MAR NV Pinot Noir, California ($22)

There are bright, juicy red fruits on the nose alongside a delicate touch of autumnal spice, a rose bouquet and subtle peppercorn. This Pinot Noir from a family-owned winery has a pleasing herbal quality from initial contact on the palate to its savory finish. The tannins are soft and the overall effect is easy like a Sunday morning.

94

Tenuta di Salviano 2023 Rigogoli Umbria Bianco IGT, Umbria, Italy ($47)

An unusual blend of equal parts Grechetto di Todi and Viognier with notable but tastefully restrained oak influence, this is among the most complex and intriguing whites from Umbria to be found. It shows floral aromas from the Viognier component that accent the bouquet, with nutty accents and vibrant acidity from the Grechetto that make this a complex, convincing, and versatile white.

93

Tenuta di Salviano 2024 Orvieto Classico, Castello di Titignano, Umbria, Italy ($18)

Among the best bottles of Orvieto Classico I’ve tasted during the past five years, this is blended from Trebbiano Toscano, Grechetto, and Verdello. Surprisingly substantial and truly medium-bodied, its interplay between citrus notes and richer tropical flavors makes it enduringly interesting, with bright acidity and a saline mineral finish that completes the package.

92

The Counselor 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, River Pass Vineyard, Alexander Valley ($37)

Roasted coffee lifts notes of cocoa and cassis. Juicy and fresh in its inky, deep flow of soy sauce and wild blueberries that level off to balance the suede mouthfeel on the energetic finish.

92

This Life 2022 Cremant, AOC Crémant de Limoux, France ($25)

A collaboration between Maison Wessman in Southwest France and musician Norah Jones, this traditional-method blend of 57% Chardonnay, 27% Chenin Blanc, 9% Pinot Noir, and 7% Mauzac sets off aromatic sparks in the form of brioche, golden apple, and peach and apricot with a hint of cream soda. Texture-wise, it fairly floats on the tongue, where tangy apricot and succulent lime curd meet zesty acidity and a hint of walnut skin on the finish.

90

This Life 2024 Rosé, IGP Méditerranée, France ($17)

Musician Norah Jones partnered with Maison Wessman in Southwest France to produce this blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache, which is peachy in every sense of the word. Additional notes include strawberry, cranberry, cantaloupe, mandarin orange, and lemon icing—all brimming from a glass that balances mouthwatering acidity with a slightly viscous texture and a finishing dash of white pepper.

96

Three Sticks 2023 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($70)

The Three Sticks label’s origin story is from the Durell Vineyard, its cool breezes off the Pacific and layers of fog influencing—and elevating — its stature. Aged in 100% French oak (21% new) for 14 months with 100% malolactic fermentation; and thanks to its natural acidity, the buttery influence of the ML is evened out. Nutmeg laces through lemon meringue, with a flocking of vanilla-dusted white flower petals. Pinpoint acidity continues to be reflected in the wine’s fresh factor, with dots of salinity accenting pear and Golden apple.

95

Three Sticks 2023 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($75)

If there’s a superstar site in Petaluma Gap, it’s Gap’s Crown Vineyard, with persisting winds and fog, instructing nature to insure long hang time. The result shows in this exciting, whole cluster red, aged 15 months in (45% new) French oak. A pinch of earthy tones barely touches cinnamon cherries. Its delicacy alights on the palace like a lace veil. Pomegranate is spiced with clove and acidity is bright. Freshness is imparted, satisfying on the dark-fruited, juicy finish.