Wine Reviews

95

Terlato 2024 Pinot Grigio, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC, Italy ($26)

The positioning of elderflower and peach blossom with the wine’s inherent minerality, is stunning. This is a more full-bodied style, allowing its unctuous character to emerge. Ripe and resplendent with stone fruit and floral luminosity, this vintage shows its complex and dimensional nature thanks to the region’s unique soils and favorable climate.

95

The Counselor 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, River Pass Vineyard, Alexander Valley ($37)

The land is the Counselor, and winemaker Nick Goldschmidt is “the man who listens to the land.” The wine opens with the freshest cherry aromas, leading to a juicy wash of fresh blueberries – and more cherries. Plush and round with nuances of rose petals, red tea leaves, and cinnamon. A gentle Cab, food-friendly with just about anything on the plate.

91

The Critic 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($22)

Dark plum, chocolate-covered figs, and soy sauce develop quickly for an intense start. Chewy tannins match with the wine’s suede mouthfeel, adding complexity for a well-priced wine in its category.

91

The Seeker 2023 Chardonnay, California ($16)

Creme fraiche and apple flesh dominate in this Chardonnay with abundant charm. There is a rich citrus tang paired with a lingering round finish. Pleasant and balanced, the buttery mouthfeel captures an essence of apple fritters ensconced with marshmallows.

92

The Seeker 2024 Red Blend, Mendoza, Argentina ($14)

This red is dominated with dark cherry, dusted with cocoa powder and conjures a cigar box. Pleasing baking spices of clove and cinnamon with vanilla are set with an undercurrent of peppery tannins and a lingering finish.

94

Three Sticks 2022 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($70)

Featuring both nutty, gently spicy notes derived from high-class cooperage and fruit conveying freshness as well as full ripeness, this is enduringly interesting because of the interplay between these principal sensory signals. Nuances recalling vanilla and caramel serve to accent fruit reminiscent of Golden apples and white peaches. Already evolving into a fully integrated wine despite showing distinct elements, this is showing beautifully now.

96

Three Sticks 2023 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($70)

Vibrant and intense on account of its youth at this point, this terrific Chardonnay still manages to seem finely woven because its barrel-based accents play so well with its fruit notes. Scents and flavors of both green and Golden apples provide ride alongside suggestions of peaches and apricots, and oak augments the wine’s complexity while still leaving it with a profile defined by freshness and linear energy.

95

TOZUDO 2020 Gran Malbec, Pucará Valley, Salta, Argentina ($50)

is from a micro-terroir, single vineyard called Alto Cardones, grown on sandy loam and quartz. Broadly focused and creamy, with notes of leather, blackberry ganache, and espresso. A creamy satin base lines the palate for a glorious mouthfeel. Aged 12 months in French oak with monthly bâttonage and then aged in bottle for an additional two years. The wine was named TOZUDO, meaning stubborn in Spanish, referring to the complexity of this project – and not giving up after many trials and errors and restarts. The winery is 40 miles from civilization, with a population of workers who are descendants from the Incas. “They had never before seen money, have no electricity, or connection to the outside world,” Moreno pointed out.