Spirit Reviews

The annual release of A Midwinter Night’s Dram is always eagerly anticipated by whiskey lovers. This year, Act 12 is composed of straight rye whiskeys ranging in age from four to ten years, finished in ruby and tawny Port barrels. The result is a wonderfully complex dram reminiscent of caramel-dipped Amarena cherries, black plums, nougat, espresso with a dollop of melted chocolate, and loads of woodsy spices. The long, lingering finish is lifted with a kiss of ginger-dusted dates.

This boundary-pushing blend of ryes that were finished in barrels that previously held Marqués de Casa Noble Añejo (there’s a small addition of Amburana-finished whiskeys in there, too) is unforgettable with brilliantly defined notes of cinnamon and clove complicating flavors of papaya, caramelized pineapple cake, and pecan pralines. The interplay of tropical and sweet stone fruit with spice is dramatic and delicious.

This four-grain mash bill from older whiskey stock performs beautifully on nose and palate. Orange zest and root beer cream aromas instill a rapid response from the senses. Apricot and chocolate-covered orange peel offer a melting textural appeal. Although at a higher proof, the spirit is not abrasive and rather sends a sweet, cedar and cinnamon expanse forth on the balanced finish.

Aged at least four years, this northern California coastal whiskey exudes a perfume of almond brittle. Approachable and unctuous, with notes of date, apricot tart, and Pekoe tea. Luxurious and complex.

At 115.8 proof and with a mash bill of 73% corn, 18% rye, 5% malted barley, and 4% wheat, this charmer is uncut and unfiltered, straight from the barrel and aged for a minimum of four years. With aromas of antique cedar closet, this supremely enchanting whiskey dives deep on first sip, with an apparent heat. As the alcohol levels out, it reveals a core of walnut and orange zest. Milk chocolate and new leather add layers, with tobacco leaf and toffee oak.

With a high-wheat mash bill and no rye to be found, this lovely five-year-old Bourbon shows all the sweet stone fruit and warm honey that you’d hope for. A gentle sweep of vanilla-tinged cereal notes provides a terrific counterpoint to subtle maple flavors. This is a beautifully crafted first release from the brand founded by Christopher Stonestreet Jackson, son of Barbara Banke and the late Jess Stonestreet Jackson.

Handmade from Amalfi lemons, and packaged in a 700 ml bottle, this is a viscous, zesty aperitif with a slight burn, but a superb flavor profile. It has all the clarity of fresh lemon rind and comes in at 64 proof.