Spirit Reviews

99

Michter’s Single Barrel Kentucky 10-Year Rye, 92.8 proof ($200)

Michter’s Master Distiller Dan McKee created this spirit, and it shows in his great appreciation for Kentucky-style rye. He notes, “It has additional flavor nuances that come from having more corn and more malted barley in a majority rye mashbill.” With a seductive nose of nougat and peach tart, this perfectly balanced rye does not dominate with spice. Gardenia, ginger, and peanut brittle are slathered with peach preserves. One of the most texturally seductive rye whiskies we’ve tasted. Maple-chocolate cedar is heightened by cinnamon hots and clove, with a diminuendo of the spice after each sip.

98

The Beverly High Rye Fine American Whiskey ($60)

Distilled in Iowa, this is a blend of 50% straight rye and 50% straight bourbon made by Andrew Borenzweig in collaboration with Cedar Ridge Distillery that is then aged in barrels from both Iowa and Indiana. Opening in a distinct aroma of cinnamon stick, it is remarkably smooth, etched in well-integrated flavors of vanilla, cherry and maple that delve deeper as it goes into a swirl of brown sugar. This 96-proof rye is impressive in both length and complexity, rich and rewarding.

94

Weber Ranch 1902 Vodka, Mexico ($28) Crafted from Agave

Crafted from 100% Blue Weber agave, this unique 80-proof spirit is a departure for the vodka norm. The agave is hand-harvested in Jalisco, and then transported to the Weber Ranch Distillery in Muenster, Texas. It is then distilled in copper pot and column stills, filtered with water from the local Trinity Aquifer, and then bottled. Aromas of damp earth, vanilla-covered blueberries, and fresh agave are penetrating. Clean and airy on the palate, with a pinch of salinity, heather, clay, and cocoa powder. The finish is sparked with a bright citrus character.

96

Alma Finca Orange Liqueur ($35)

Made with fresh ingredients such as sweet and bitter orange peel, lime leaves, citrus blossoms and spices native to the Yucatán, this is a delightful option for making the Mexican Margarita, an orange liqueur that will go well with Tequila and lime juice as well as in many other cocktails. Citrus and spices are macerated separately for several days with a neutral cane spirit before the final blend is created. Clear in color, it opens in forceful orange aromas, with a pure expression throughout that’s clean and precise. A finishing touch of white pepper and cinnamon stick linger.

94

Bozal Borrego Sacrificio Mezcal, Oaxaca, Mexico 94 proof ($99)

Made from Espadín agave and the thick-foliaged wild agave called Barril, we find here a gradation of smoke, charred marshmallow, and crème brûlée. Orange peel weaves its way into brisk, white-peppered underbrush and earthy clay. The finish is lengthy, leaving behind a coating of cigar leaf and tangerine.

96

Bozal Castilla Reserva Mezcal, Durango, Mexico 94.6 proof ($129)

Castilla, a close cousin to Espadín, is used here, showing off its alluring aromas of floral elegance. Perfumed smoke lifts its veil to reveal jasmine and rose petals. Lime zest surrounds tobacco and black pepper, readying the palate for a crescendo of slate, anise, and campfire.

96

Casa Maestri Mezcal Joven Mezcal Reserva de MFM, Oaxaca, Mexico ($70)

Prominent perfume of clay and fresh agave, with subtle campfire smoke. Peppered cocoa swims in earth tones, with gliding strokes of minerality across the palate.

96

Casa Maestri Reserva de MFM Blanco Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico, 80 Proof ($60)

Aromas of lavender and ginger ring true alongside a perfume of fresh agave.. Silky and generous, with vanilla bean, gardenia, and earthen clay. Deep and soulful.