Spirit Reviews

98

High n’ Wicked No. 7 Foursquare Single Grain Irish Whiskey ($80)

This is a collaboration between importer/specialty whiskey bottler High n’ Wicked and Barbados-based Foursquare Rum Distillery. Together they have made a 100-proof Irish whiskey distilled in Ireland from 95% French maize and 5% malted Irish barley that is aged first in ex-Bourbon barrels before being finished 12 years in single-blend Barbados rum casks and bottled in Kentucky. With a sweet entry of molasses, vanilla and coconut, it glides on the palate in refined smoothness, just lightly spiced in clove and other baking spices.

96

High n’ Wicked Straight Rye Whiskey ($80)

Made in Kentucky with proprietary limestone water from a mash bill of 91% rye and 9% malted barley, this is a 98.2-proof spirit, aged five years in new toasted white oak with #4 char. Lengthy in corn, cinnamon toast, and smoky undertones, it is balanced and vibrant on the palate, with hints of vanilla and tobacco that dot richer, more unctuous layers of brown sugar and baked pear.

91

James Lake Crisp Cucumber Vodka, USA, 70 proof ($22)

Dill aromas engage with a freshness from a squeeze of lime. Tart and salty on the palate, with a powerful presence of cucumber. Add ice or use as a mixer for best results.

90

James Lake Vodka, USA 80 proof ($22)

Aromas are pleasant, consisting of earthy clay and vanilla. Produced from gluten free American corn, this Kentucky-based spirit features a snap of white pepper on entry, softened by white chocolate and sturdied by cigar leaf. A sweet finish extends on the finish.

90

Los Hermanos 1978 Blanco Tequila ($46)

Peppered notes of vanilla bean and agave, with a flash of earthy minerality. Clean and focused.

92

Los Hermanos 1978 Reposado Tequila ($50)

Agave is unmasked on the nose, with aromas of brown-sugared peaches. Marzipan and coffee bean are tangled on the palate, dotted by black pepper and a hint of tobacco. Well balanced.

94

Los Siete Misterios Doba-Yej Mezcal, Oaxaca, Mexico 88 proof ($41)

Distilled in copper pots, Doba-Yej, which translates to Espadin in the Zapotec language, opens up with a nose of fresh agave and just-squeezed lime, with a hint of orange peel and peach blossom. A sweet entry of lemon tart, candied ginger, and a delicate, musky smokiness is appealing and offers an opulent tone to the taste of cooked agave. Mid-palate awakens with summer peach that softens the pinch of black pepper and cigar leaf. A lovely, calming finish of dusted coconut-citrus.

98

Los Siete Misterios Olla de Barro Mezcal, Sola de Vega, Oaxaca, Mexico 98 proof ($146)

Maguey Arroqueño is roasted and double-distilled in copper pots for this elegant contender. Its aromatic beauty is preternatural, with an exquisite array of perfumes, from grilled summer peaches and ripe guava, to floral accents of lemon blossom and gardenia. The seductive palate is ignited by salted plum, basil, bramble, and sweet agave. At 98 proof, it really maintains a gentle soul.