Spirit Reviews

94

Evil Bean Cold Brew Coffee Liqueur, USA ($30)

From Minden Mill Distillery in Nevada, this 50- proof, high desert estate spirit delivers a most aromatic coffee aroma. Piquant notes of red pepper surprises while bittersweet dark chocolate and Luxardo cherry dive into a maelstrom of espresso and caramel. Bravo for the satin-lined mouthfeel on the finish that hangs on and begs for more as it spreads across the palate.

96

HIGH WEST A Midwinter Night’s Dram Act 12 ($150)

The annual release of A Midwinter Night’s Dram is always eagerly anticipated by whiskey lovers. This year, Act 12 is composed of straight rye whiskeys ranging in age from four to ten years, finished in ruby and tawny Port barrels. The result is a wonderfully complex dram reminiscent of caramel-dipped Amarena cherries, black plums, nougat, espresso with a dollop of melted chocolate, and loads of woodsy spices. The long, lingering finish is lifted with a kiss of ginger-dusted dates.

96

High West, The Noble Share Whiskey ($175)

This boundary-pushing blend of ryes that were finished in barrels that previously held Marqués de Casa Noble Añejo (there’s a small addition of Amburana-finished whiskeys in there, too) is unforgettable with brilliantly defined notes of cinnamon and clove complicating flavors of papaya, caramelized pineapple cake, and pecan pralines. The interplay of tropical and sweet stone fruit with spice is dramatic and delicious.

96

Redwood Empire Pipe Dream 101-proof Bourbon Whiskey, Sonoma County ($55)

This four-grain mash bill from older whiskey stock performs beautifully on nose and palate. Orange zest and root beer cream aromas instill a rapid response from the senses. Apricot and chocolate-covered orange peel offer a melting textural appeal. Although at a higher proof, the spirit is not abrasive and rather sends a sweet, cedar and cinnamon expanse forth on the balanced finish.

94

Stonestreet Kentucky Straight Bourbon Founder’s Edition ($60)

With a high-wheat mash bill and no rye to be found, this lovely five-year-old Bourbon shows all the sweet stone fruit and warm honey that you’d hope for. A gentle sweep of vanilla-tinged cereal notes provides a terrific counterpoint to subtle maple flavors. This is a beautifully crafted first release from the brand founded by Christopher Stonestreet Jackson, son of Barbara Banke and the late Jess Stonestreet Jackson.

95

Valentina Russo Limoncello, Campania, Italy ($24)

Handmade from Amalfi lemons, and packaged in a 700 ml bottle, this is a viscous, zesty aperitif with a slight burn, but a superb flavor profile. It has all the clarity of fresh lemon rind and comes in at 64 proof.

92

Amaro dell’Etna, Etna Spritz ($28)

Made from estate-grown IGP Protected Geographical Indication Sicilian blood oranges, this colorful 22-proof Amaro liqueur is meant to be added to soda water and sparkling wine for a classic Aperitivo Italiano. The lovely opening aromas of citrus are balanced in sweetness with an overall lightness of style, finishing clean with a moderate level of viscosity.

90

Grainger’s Deluxe Organic Vanilla Vodka ($20)

Distilled seven times from USDA Organic corn before being infused with extracts of organic vanilla, this vodka expresses the more floral side of the spice, as opposed to the confected character that often defines vanilla vodkas. It makes an especially excellent base for Espresso Martinis.