Wine Reviews

96

Rodney Strong Vineyard 2020 Symmetry Red Wine, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County ($70)

A remarkable vintage for a stunning wine, its grapes sourced from top vineyards in Sonoma County by winemaker Justin Seindenfeld. The blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, with small percentages of Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot, was aged 24 months in 75% new French oak. Black raspberry stains the palate, decidedly lush and creamy. Anise exacts a certain texture as well, leading to black-peppered sandalwood and a secret pathway to a garden of Mediterranean herbs. Tannins are round and silky, but broad and present enough to exude the wine’s inner strength.

93

Rongopai Wines 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($18)

Priced at a level common among Sauvignons from Marlborough, this is exceptional in quality. Its bouquet is expressive without being overly pungent, with subtle suggestions of dried herbs working very well with fruit aromas and flavors recalling limes and grapefruit. The finish is unusually, admirably dry, with a pleasant touch of citrus rind bitterness in the finish.

95

Rutherford Hill 2023 Merlot, Napa Valley ($38)

Chocolate-covered cherries are cheerful and bright, with a hint of tension, leveled out by a defined structure. Tannins are evident but gently avail themselves by wrapping around white pepper, pomegranate, and baking spices.

93

Rutherford Hill 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($28)

Creamy and biscuity, with a foundation of lemon curd and garden herbs. Salted pears gather mid-palate, with honey and jasmine to sweeten the pot.

92

SALDO 2021 Red Blend, California ($30)

Saldo means “to join” or “to weld,” and this brand is reportedly supplied by more than 100 vineyard sites. Rather than seeming like something cobbled together, this blend tastes quite thoughtfully composed. A plurality of 51% Petite Sirah is softened—but also brightened—by five other varieties, resulting in a wine that is big and bold but not overblown.

92

SALDO 2023 Zinfandel, California ($30)

Weighing in at a stated 15.5% alcohol, but showing almost no alcohol-driven “heat,” this is quite robust but still easy to enjoy. It shows mostly briary black fruit notes, with a core of Zinfandel effectively augmented by 11% Petite Sirah, 4% Syrah, and 2% Carignan. Very promising as a partner for hearty winter stews or roasted lamb with Moroccan spices.

91

Samuel Robert 2024 Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Vineyard Reserve,” Napa ($25)

Bright cherry and pomegranate possess mocha overtones. Juicy and fresh, with supple amd inviting tannins. Notes of sweet tobacco and lightly oaked cinnamon-cherry are quite pleasing.

92

Santa Ema 2023 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley, Chile ($16)

Juicy and concentrated, with suede-lined tannins, ripe blueberry, and spiced sandalwood. Notes of beef broth, licorice, and new leather demonstrate its complex nature.