Impressively dark color shows the seriousness of this wine as soon as it hits a glass, and that initial impression is sustained all the way through the sensory sequence from sniff to sip to smile. Indisputably full-bodied but neither over-ripe nor over-oaked, this delivers so much rich flavor with so little astringency that one wonders how it could prove more broadly appealing even if offered at twice its asking price.
