Wine Reviews

92

Palladino 2020 Bricco delle Olive Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOC, Piedmont, Italy ($34)

Bright and juicy, with a fierce line of acidity juxtaposed with salinity. Tart cherry and cinnamon hots ignite on the finish.

87

Pampa Estate 2023 Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($11)

Moderately deep red, some fade at the edge of the glass, moderately aromatic intensity, but with a lack of definition, light plum and red fruit character, grainy impression, medium bodied, solid presence on the mid-palate, but it quickly falls of on the back palate, with a bit of bitterness, comes across as a basic commercial style wine.

93

Pandemonium 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, French Camp Vineyard, Paso Robles ($40)

Bittersweet dark chocolate and dusty tannins make way for blackberry, slate, and leather. A powerful engine roars in sync with the wine’s balanced temperament.

91

Paper Boat 2022 Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($20)

Situated in a sweet spot between Malbecs that offer little but ripe fruit and ones that layer on excessive oak, this is a very versatile rendition of the variety for stand-alone sipping or pairing with moderately robust foods. The juice was kept in contact with French oak staves for six months in steel tanks, which is a sensible method for imparting spicy nuances while retaining freshness of fruit. Concentration is excellent for a wine at this price, and so too is the wine’s overall balance.

96

Poderi Gianni Gagliardo 2019 Barolo, La Morra DOCG, Piedmont, Italy ($81)

Finely tuned, with sleek acidity, salted cherries, roses, and balsamic. Mid-point notes of orange zest and cinnamon are exceptional. Tannins are soft, with rich elegance.

91

Portlandia 2020 Red Blend, Columbia Valley, WA ($22)

A Cabernet Sauvignon dominant blend with Merlot and Syrah, aged 15 months in new and used French oak. Aromas of grilled meats, leather, molasses, and sweet fennel merge with black currants and chocolate. Round lush tannins and a juicy character enhance the experience.

92

Portlandia 2022 Rosé, Columbia Valley, WA ($17)

A 100% stainless steel fermented rosé of Syrah with exuberant notes of rose petals, geranium, and grapefruit zest on nose and palate. Texture is key here, with a bright acidity and a line of minerality that shows its inviting persona. Fresh and crisp with a bergamot whisper on the finish.

96

Psâgot M Series 2020 Homeland, Jerusalem Mountains, Israel ($60)

A stunning blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Shiraz, 6% Petit Verdot, and 6% Petite Sirah. Luxurious mouthfeel, with dusty cocoa tannins dotted with boysenberry preserves. Violets perk up a partnership of espresso and tilled soil.