Plushness without ponderousness appears to be a hallmark of the Rivière style, and this Old Wente clone Chardonnay, aged for 11 months in (29% new) French oak, is a sterling example. Bright fragrances of lime and green apple mingle with richer ones of gardenia and pastry cream, presaging a palate that’s generous yet fresh and clean with lime, lemon, and white peach. Also characteristic of the producer is a lengthy finish, in this case finely marked by white pepper and stony minerality.
