GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

92

Instrumental 2023 Coastal Vineyards Chardonnay, California ($13)

The back label acknowledges that this was made by a “simple approach” to winemaking, and thanks to the purity of fruit that shows in the finished product, the approach must be judged a success. The fruit is not overly simple, and indeed the notes of Fuji apples and white peaches shine through more clearly in the absence of an overlay of oak. Terrific value.

93

Ironstone 2021 Reserve Cabernet Franc, Sierra Foothills, Amador County ($26)

Dusty, with dried violets, candied black raspberry, and tobacco leaf. Cured meats add salinity to its broad reach across the palate. Tannins are teeth-gripping and chewy, demanding attention on a foundation of graphite. Big and impressive.

91

It’s a HeadSnapper 2022 Riesling, Columbia Valley, WA ($10)

Luscious notes of apricot nectar, baked pear, lemon tart, and chamomile. Just the right level of acidity to keep the palate refreshed. It lives up to the reputation that fine Rieslings are produced in Washington State. At this price, it’s also a showstopper.

91

Just Enough Wines 2022 Rosé Bubbles, Central Coast, CA ($8)

Sold in a 250ml can, this would provide about two generous pours in most sparkling glasses. I sampled it both from the can and from a glass and was surprised that it proved so appealing even without the benefit of being “nosed” in a glass. Fresh and fruity rather than yeasty, but dry and very appealing, this is among the best “alternative packaging” wines I’ve tasted.

89

Just Enough Wines 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Central Coast, CA ($8)

Although this seems to be marketed with a view to serving size, container convenience, and sustainability, the wine can hold its own regardless of these considerations. Monterey-sourced fruit shows good varietal character, with citrus and melon flavors along with gentle but refreshing acidity. Good from the can, but better in a glass.

91

Kate Arnold 2023 North Coast Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast, CA ($22)

Smartly styled to work well as a stand-alone sipping wine or as a partner for a wide range of foods, this holds true to the variety with fresh citrus and white melon fruit notes. A touch of grassiness never turns overly herbaceous, and the acidity lends refreshment value without seeming too tart.

93

Kate Arnold 2023 Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington ($22)

Crystalline purity of fruit and excellent balance between acidity and sweetness are the keys to this wine’s success. The touch of sweetness seems much more a characteristic of ripe fruit than “residual sugar.” Neither as tart nor as mineral as German Rieslings, but convincingly delicious in its own way.

90

L. Prima 2021 Pinot Noir, Central Coast ($17)

Plum and espresso on nose and palate concur that this is a savory, earthy red. Keen acidity and cinnamon-spiced cedar linger on the finish.