Wine Reviews

96

As One Cru 2021 Pinot Noir, Carneros, Sonoma County ($50)

Aged for two years in used French oak Cabernet Sauvignon barrels, this is a Pinot with some weight. Oak integrates with sweet cherry and creates a textural graininess that is mouth filling and appealing. Tobacco leaf and cinnamon-coffee bristle on the palate. Meaty, with an inner brightness caught up in a fine acid structure.

93

Atelier 2021 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($50)

Wonderfully proportioned wine with compelling purity and vibrancy. Lifted red fruit, strawberry, cherry, cranberry with delicate star anise spice and dried mushroom. Ten months oak aging, small proportion of new oak lends subtle, intriguing nuance. Skillfully produced allowing the expressive fruit character and strong sense of place on full display.

93

Atelier 2022 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($49)

Wonderfully proportioned wine with compelling purity and vibrancy. Lifted red fruit, strawberry, cherry, cranberry with delicate star anise spice and dried mushroom. Ten months oak aging, small proportion of new oak lends subtle, intriguing nuance. Skillfully produced allowing the expressive fruit character and strong sense of place on full display.

93

Bezel Wines 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Paso Robles, California ($25)

This wine came as news to me—very good news. Explicitly a project of the Cakebread family, it is among the most complex and enduringly interesting Sauvignon Blancs I’ve tasted from Paso. Whether the fruit was picked at just the right time or whether multiple pickings were performed at different stages to capture acidity as well as riper fruit, the interplay of citrus and white melon fruit could hardly be better. Zesty and yet also showing substance on the palate, this is terrific.

90

Bianchi 2022 Organic Cabernet Sauvignon, San Rafael, Mendoza, Argentina ($16)

The intense, rich color mirrors the intense nose of ripe blackberry, cassis, and plum, followed by black pepper, bell pepper, and tomato leaf. On the palate, this young wine shows red fruit characteristics balanced with baking spices and a hint of tobacco.

93

Black Stallion Estate Winery 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast ($25)

In its first vintage for the Black Stallion North Coast Collection, this lush red possesses an easily quaffable nature. Notes of black cherry and dark chocolate are surrounded by lavender, taking a far forward lead. Armed with horsepower, bold and athletic, its suede coat of spiced, toasted oak, ripe boysenberry, and raspberry are carried on sleek tannins in a full-bodied stride.

92

Black Stallion Estate Winery 2022 Chardonnay, North Coast ($20)

Fruit sourced from the Alexander Valley (70%) and Sonoma Coast (30%) result in a aromatic, flavorful white with stamina and staying power. Toasted brioche, cake batter, and tangerine are opulent on nose and palate. Elegant, reined in succulence, it washes over the moth with grace in a stream of plush, ripe apricot, a streak of melon, and marzipan. Fine acidity offers a crispness that softens the buttery finish.

91

Blue Canyon 2021 Estate Grown Pinot Noir, Reserve Collection, Arroyo Seco, Monterey County ($20)

The Blue Grand Canyon sits underneath Monterey Bay and influences Monterey’s grape-growing regions. This coastal Pinot offers up black raspberry, clove, and cinnamon stick, melded with damp earth, for a deep and satisfying profile. Espresso and vanilla linger on the shadowed finish.