Wine Reviews

92

Scheid Family Wines, 2022 District 7 Estate Chardonnay, Monterey ($16)

Quite impressive in relation to its asking price, this offers a sense of richness while remaining refreshing. Medium-plus in body but freshened by balanced acidity, it also offers an interesting floral aroma as well as flavors recalling baked apples and orchard fruits.

92

Scheid Family Wines, 2022 District 7 Estate Pinot Noir, Monterey ($16)

Pinot Noir is notoriously difficult to grow and vinify, and good renditions that aren’t expensive are difficult to find. Here’s a fine exception to the rule, with appealing aromas of red fruits and substantial flavors to match. Spicy oak accents lend complexity to the finish without intruding on the fruit’s centrality. This would still be impressive at $25—but is a steal at $16.

93

Schug 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley ($48)

Spiced sandalwood and juicy plum are highlights. Dried violets settle on the tongue, aided by supple tannins that maintain the wine’s luxe approachability. Ripe black cherry melds with dark chocolate and espresso.

92

Schug 2023 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($30)

Elegant, with floral appointments of honeysuckle, and gardenia, accented by candied ginger. A creamy wash of vanilla-peach works its way to add depth and richness.

91

Silent Sea 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, San Lucas Vineyard, Monterey County ($35)

Grapes are sourced from this foggy vineyard, with elevations up to 1250 feet in southern Monterey County. Aged 14 months in (40% new) French oak, this full-bodied red is amped by a bright acidity. Notes of underbrush, plum, cranberry, and fresh blueberries lead the way. It finishes with notes of salted plum and lavender.

95

Smith-Madrone 2019 Estate Riesling, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley ($40)

Any surprise that ultra-prime land in Napa is still planted to Riesling will blow off like morning fog by anyone who tastes this wine. Truly dry but still very generous in aroma and fleshy fruit recalling the best peach you’ve ever eaten, this wine belongs among the world’s most esteemed examples of this great variety. Nearing five years of age, it has gained complexity without tiring at all, with energetic acidity that’s perfectly tuned to the wine’s fruitiness.

97

Smith-Madrone, 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley ($65)

Nearing five years of age as this winery’s current release, this has settled into a sweet spot where oak, primary fruit and tannin are all singing in harmony. Savory undertones emerge to lend enduringly intriguing complexities as this warms and breathes in one’s glass. Neither pushy nor reticent, heavy nor light, this is one of Napa’s classiest Cabernets in a vintage that shows it in peak form.

88

Smoking Loon 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($10)

Use of American oak adds a spiced cedar note to the tart raspberry compote flavor profile. Tannins are present and create a supple mouthfeel.