GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

97

Krug Grande Cuvée 172ème Édition, Reims, Champagne, France ($250)

Comprising 146 wines from 11 vintages spanning 1998–2016, this blend of 44% Pinot Noir, 36% Chardonnay, and 20% Meunier is as uplifting as a psalm. Splendid aromas of stollen rise and fall and rise again in tandem with tangerine, florals such as jasmine and lime blossom, and oyster shell, while luxurious suggestions of white fig and walnut skin, attended by finely etched acidity, trail lemon as the palate unfolds like finespun silk. The finish is so alive it almost has a pulse.

98

Krug Rosé 28ème Édition, Reims, Champagne, France ($425)

The evolution that a single glass of Krug Rosé undergoes at virtually any stage of its development is more notable than most wines experience in their lifetime. This release is no exception. Composed of 32 wines from six vintages between 2010 and 2016, the blend of 58% Pinot Noir (including 10% red wine), 25% Chardonnay, and 17% Meunier is a tad more generous than the 27th edition but no less precise for that. Over time, the nose clearly evokes everything from cranberry and cinnamon to bergamot and rose to fresh soil and prosciutto, while the palate brings in brûléed pink grapefruit, peach, and ginger by turns as its plush texture hews to its elegant frame. When people laud Champagne’s combination of power and finesse, this is exactly what they mean.

94

Lloyd by Robert Lloyd 2022 Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County ($50)

An Earth Mother, majestic and generous, with a broad reach of clove-kissed cherries and ripe plum. Lithe, but energetic, with refined acid structure that signals purity and freshness.

94

Lloyd by Robert Lloyd 2023 Chardonnay, Carneros, Napa Valley ($42)

An extroverted Chardonnay that boasts of toasted oak, salted hazelnut, and Golden yellow apples. Creamy butterscotch mid-palate, soothed by amped up acidity.

95

Lorenzi 2021 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($135)

With the addition of some Merlot and Petit Verdot, this is a 28-month, 100% French-oaked aged Cabernet Sauvignon with chewy, but approachable suede tannins. Dusted with cocoa and blueberry. The wine comes on like a heavyweight, but broadens across the palate, reining in its powerful message. A sprinkle of white pepper, graphite, licorice, and soy sauce drench the palate on the finish.

95

Lorenzi Estate 2018 Double Down Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Temecula Valley ($135)

Aged for five years in 100% French oak ought to have tamed this red, but massive tannins manage to take hold of teeth and tongue, with dramatic flavors of dark chocolate fudge, tobacco, slate, and black currant ganache. Empowered by a wave of luxury, the wine progresses to an architectural form, with the dimension and backbone of a towering skyscraper.

93

Loveblock 2023 Pinot Gris, Marlborough, New Zealand ($33)

Tart lime, salty minerality and elderflower shine. Zesty acidity expands across the palate, accenting melon and meringue.

93

Loveblock 2023 Tee Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($33)

Eliminating sulphur from the wine, the folks at Loveblock instead extract tannins from green tea leaves, which provides protection against oxidation and spoilage. Mouth-filling, unctuous notes of kiwi, marzipan, green tea, pineapple, and summer peach are evident. Racy acidity sparks through its richer profile, with a touch of lemon verbena and sweet basil on the finish.