Wine Reviews

96

Concha y Toro 2022 Terrunyo Carmenère, Peumo Vineyard, Cachapoal Valley, Chile ($55)

This is a superb wine. Expressive but not pushy aromas include fresh dark berries, subtle oak spice, and the faintest whiff of wild herbs. Rich and deeply flavored, with fresh notes of black currants and blackberries with an undertone of cocoa powder, this is complex but convincingly coherent at once.

94

Concha y Toro 2023 Terrunyo Sauvignon Blanc, Los Boldos Vineyard, Casablanca Valley, Chile ($30)

Markey by vivid varietal character on the citrusy side of the Sauv Blanc spectrum, this displays expressive aromas of dried herbs, freshly cut limes, and pink grapefruit. These fruit notes are echoed on the palate, with mineral undertones and energetic acidity. Impressively flavorful and satisfying for a wine with only 11.5% stated alcohol.

92

Cooper & Thief Bourbon barrel-aged 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($30)

Boysenberry tart and espresso-laden cake are the delicious results of aging three months in bourbon barrels. Black cherry and walnut go deep, with resounding notes of chocolate and cedar.

95

Croma Vera 2023 Albariño, San Luis Obispo Coast, CA ($32)

A compelling Albariño that extends a youthful appearance and wonderfully expressive aromas. Notes of apricot, peach, and citrus are lifted and captivating. Full bodied, appealing textural component from lees aging, perfectly balanced, layered and nuanced with superb length on the finish. A beautiful wine from start to finish.

89

Crowded House 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand $13)

Neither as pungent nor as tart as many renditions of Marlborough Sauvignon, this still packs a lot of character and is unmistakable in relation to its region of origin. Aromas and flavors akin to pink grapefruit along with freshly sliced lime drive the wine’s overall impression, with a balance of fruity sweetness and zesty acidity that should prove broadly popular.

95

Cusumano 2019 NOÀ, Sicily DOC, Italy ($55)

A super-Sicilian blend of Nero d’Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot that offers a velvet-lined mouthfeel, stirring the senses with structure and grace. Black currant, dark chocolate, and orange bitters are emboldened within a cool, muscular graphite frame. Notes of black olive and soy sauce glide along the fleshy finish line.

93

Cusumano 2022 Benuara, Sicily DOC, Italy ($23)

This is a vivacious blend of 70% Nero d’Avola and 30% Syrah. Grainy tannins are beautifully textured: a combination of dark chocolate-lathered suede. A rush of boysenberry truffle melts across the palate. Acidity remains steady, with high-profile freshness.

93

Dancing Crow Vineyards 2023 Chardonnay, Mendocino, CA ($30)

This is an unoaked Chardonnay and is significantly more complex than other wines of its type. It shows alluring floral aromas and expressive fruit flavors akin to nicely ripened pears and Golden Delicious apples. Indisputably delectable in a flavorful but pure style that makes this highly versatile.