Wine Reviews

95

Bodegas Hispano & Suizas 2020 Bassus Finca Casilla Herrera, D.O.P. Valencia, Spain ($39)

A seductive blend of 35% Bobal, 18% Petit Verdot, 20% Syrah, 15% Merlot, and 15% Cabernet Franc. Coffee, mocha, and violets are stunning aromatics. Suede tannins support an intense array of flavors: melted dark chocolate-cherry with a coffee backing. Bold and beautiful, with boysenberry and blue flowers igniting the senses.

92

Bodegas Hispano & Suizas 2022 Bobos, Finca Casa La Borracha, D.O.P. Utiel-Requena, Spain ($36)

A rustic red from 100% Bobal, with grainy tannins and deep, resonant flavors of graphite, leather, balsamic, and black currant. Broad notes of roasted coffee, soil, and black fruits paint the palate. As it opens, the fruit ripens and lends a salty tone to the finish.

93

Böen 2023 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($35)

Well-developed, broad strokes of black currant, dark chocolate, and tree bark unleash layers of character. Deeply shadowed, with tobacco, but assisted with good acidity and salty mineral tones. This Pinot Noir morphs from beast to beauty.

94

Böen 2023 Reserve Pinot Noir, Haribach V. Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County ($45)

The liquid glides into a depth of black-peppered boysenberry. Deep, dark, and mysterious, it lines the mouth with velvet tannins. Dynamic and rich, it exudes notes of pennyroyal – a hint of iron and mint – with a swash of black coffee. It satisfies with an overtly bold – and beautifully balanced – persona.

92

Böen 2023 Tri-County Chardonnay ($25)

Fruit is sourced from 85% Santa Barbara County, 10% Monterey County, and 5% Sonoma County. Rich peach and melon shine, along with salted celery, vanilla bean, and ripe pear. Minerality and acidity beam brightly.

92

Böen 2023 Tri-County Pinot Noir ($25)

Grapes are sourced from Sonoma County (47%), Monterey County (35%), and Santa Barbara County (18%). Cocoa nibs and black cherry generate a medium weight on the palate that is creamy but not overly dense. Its espresso expression ties in with an earthy quality, and unites dark fruit with savory tones of cured beef and soy sauce. Intriguing.

91

Bonterra 2022 Zinfandel, California ($16)

This organically farmed Zinfandel offers flavors of ripe purple plum, espresso, soil, and vanilla-spiced cedar. Built to stand-up, its architecture retains a firm frame, but the juicy, white-peppered finish unleashes its inner beauty.

93

Borgo San Daniele 2023 “I am Mauro” Friulano, Isonzo del Fruili DOC, Italy ($31)

Mineral-driven, stark white with sea salted fresh linen, marzipan, and lime zest. Linear and clean with perky acidity and a zesty finish.