Wine Reviews

96

Cusumano 2020 NOÀ, Sicily DOC, Italy ($55)

The biblical figure Noah is said to have been the first person to cultivate a vineyard, and this Super Sicilian blend of 40% Nero d’Avola, 30% Merlot, and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon is dedicated to him. Dusty, dry, and plummy tannins maintain grip and an assertive presence. Impressive tones of lavender, jasmine, orange peel, and dark black fruit engage with a remarkable acid structure. Expressive, with a luxe tone.

95

Cusumano 2021 Salealto, Terre Siciliane IGT, Italy ($55)

Equal parts Insolia, Grillo, and Zibibbo (aka Muscat of Alexandria) compose this white wine from Tenuta Ficuzza, whose name translates to “the encounter of sea and mountain.” It exudes aromas of deliriously perfumed tangerine and apple, and on the palate, nutty notes meld with wildflower, crème brûlée, lemon cake batter, and shortbread. A salty sea breeze offers an ethereal finish.

95

Cusumano 2021 Salealto, Terre Siciliane IGT, Italy ($55)

Equal parts Insolia, Grillo, and Zibibbo (aka Muscat of Alexandria) compose this white wine from Tenuta Ficuzza, whose name translates to “the encounter of sea and mountain.” It exudes aromas of deliriously perfumed tangerine and apple, and on the palate, nutty notes meld with wildflower, crème brûlée, lemon cake batter, and shortbread. A salty sea breeze offers an ethereal finish.

95

Cusumano 2022 Jalé Chardonnay, Terre Siciliane IGT, Italy ($40)

Jalé is named for the chalky white soils in the vineyards on the winery’s Ficuzza estate, which are surrounded by woods on hills at 2,700 feet above sea level. Leesy, buttery notes intertwine with ample acidity to satisfy the palate. Marzipan and salted pear are balanced by a creamy base of vanilla.

91

Cusumano 2022 Nero D’Avola, Sicilia DOC, Italy ($17)

Earthy and plummy, with notes of quince and orange peel. Basil-kissed tomato leaf and a pinch of white pepper and tobacco leaf. The wine is spiced with chili pepper, with medium acidity and ample tannin structure.

93

Cusumano 2023 Angimbé, Terre Siciliane IGT, Italy ($23)

A blend of 70% Insolia and 30% Chardonnay with a low ABV of 12.5%, this wine is named for the woods near the vineyard where these grapes grow and features a Vinolok glass stopper. Salted lemon meringue and hazelnut form a bond to spotlight the wine’s pretty profile and high-toned acidity. Lined with vanilla custard, the palate delivers a lengthy finish.

94

Cuvaison Estate 2022 Chardonnay, Los Carneros, Napa Valley ($35)

Based on its level of detail and capacity for improvement with additional time in bottle, this is better than most $50 Chardonnays even without price considered. Barrel notes recalling baking spices, cloves, and natural vanilla are prominent but very appealing and in balance with the fruit, which is rich and ripe but energized by lively, well-integrated acidity. Impressive wine from an advantageously cool vintage.

95

Cuvaison Estate 2022 Pinot Noir, Los Carneros, Napa Valley ($45)

There’s a “house style” at Cuvaison that’s exemplified in this Pinot, which was so carefully grown and made that it is already seamlessly, obviously delicious. A longstanding verity is that superb wines are superb from the outset, and this is one of them.