Wine Reviews

95

The Four Graces 2023 Reserve Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, OR ($65)

A perfume of rose petals, iron, raspberries and melting chocolate drenches the palate, rich and plush. Heather, plump cherries, and orange peel address its expressive nature. A touch of underbrush, sarsaparilla, and cinnamon toast leave a remarkable lasting impression.

93

The Sneak 2023 Red Blend, Los Carneros, Sonoma County ($30)

From Cline Cellars J. Poppe estate vineyard in the southern end of the Sonoma Valley, this vintage is off an extremely cool growing season from an already cool site. The aromas of plum blossom and black cherries are inviting, and the entry is plush with a developed concentration of cherry, jasmine, and rhubarb. The blend of 36% Merlot, 32% Syrah, 14% Grenache, with added fractions of Nero d’Avola, Teroldego, and Malbec intensifies with layers of raspberry-chocolate ganache and a deep, rich soil character. It finishes with exotic spices and sandalwood.

89

Theoleo 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles ($20)

This ripe, fruit-forward Cab is classic Paso in its exuberance and generosity. Flavors of cherries, red plums, cinnamon, and toasty vanilla would pair perfectly with saucy barbecue. A portion of proceeds goes to the American Wildlife Conservation Partners.

89

Theoleo 2023 Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County ($20)

Sweet cherry fruit jumps from the glass, and is joined by vibrant notes of star anise and clove. These follow through to the wild-strawberry palate, which ends on a subtle lift of dried rose petals. A portion of proceeds goes to the American Wildlife Conservation Partners.

94

Trione Vineyards 2019 Henry’s Blend Red Wine, Geyserville Ranch, Alexander Valley, Sonoma Cty ($65)

A blend of 34% Merlot, 13% Petit Verdot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cab Franc, and 5% Malbec. Dried violets, clove-spiced roses, and Hoisin sauce leads the senses in this ripe, alluring Bordeaux-style red. Tannins are supple and acidity is fairly high; a spotlight of bright plum, cola, and sour cherry linger with a touch of nutmeg on the finish.

96

Trione Vineyards 2020 Block 21 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander valley, Sonoma County ($80)

The winery’s 135-acres of vineyards at Cloverdale Ranch is home to Block 21, sporting some of the warmest temperatures in the area. Aged 24 months in French oak. Broad and sturdy, with backbone and finesse. A gentle giant, its firm, expressive tannins bearing weight on the palate. Dark chocolate, espresso, used saddle leather, and graphite form a consortium of elegance.

92

Tropical Cranberry Moscato by Luca Bosio, Italy ($15)

From the Italian Alps, and from a revered winemaker, this hedonistic sparkler offers an authentic flavor profile with a hint of vanilla cream, cinnamon, and peony.

93

Ultimate Provence 2024, rose, Cotes de Provence, France ($25)

There is a lovely concentration to this wine that lends depth and presence that makes it stand out among the rosé pack. It vibrates with raspberry and blood orange, both lifted with springtime blossoms, while savory with peppercorn and a suggestion of thyme. Syrah, Grenache Noir, Cinsault, and Rolle.