GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

93

Reyneke 2024 Vinehugger Red, Western Cape, South Africa ($18)

A blend of organic grapes, this Syrah (98%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (2%) sports grilled meats and bacon fat, with saturating blackberry and dark plum. Satin-lined tannins and white pepper demand attention – a luxurious ride across the palate. Spiced cedar and coffee add dimension to deep plum, violets, and dark chocolate.

95

Sartori di Verona 2019 Reius Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG, Italy ($59)

Black plum and dark chocolate are glorious aromas. Exceptionally elegant blend of 50% Corvina Veronese, 30% Corvinone, 15% Rondinella, and 5% Croatina, with stewed fruit, umami, and coffee. Intensity gathers speed, with clove, cinnamon, and fig charting a savory course. Deeply satisfying with a silky mouthfeel and a lingering finish of toasted cocoa and mulberry.

92

Schug 2023 Pinot Noir, Carneros ($42)

The nose displays tilled earth, with an underlying mineral tone. Dark and dramatic, with cigar leaf, leather, and black tea. Plum and new leather maintain a paradigm of ripe fruit and soil-rich, savory undertones.

95

Scribe 2023 “Gift of Fair Winds” Pinot Noir, Carneros ($54)

I tasted this wine with Luke Anable, owner of The Natural Wine Company in Arizona, but the wine is distributed nationally. Winery owners Nathan and Adam Mariani have been making this Carneros Pinot Noir since 2007, most of it off the 30-year-ld Martini Heritage clone. Its earth-laden nose reveals marzipan and dried, spiced red berries. Forest floor rises on first pass, with a backdrop of bramble, black cherry and sweet cigar leaf. With fine clarity on the palate, it finishes quietly with toasty restraint.

97

Sea Smoke 2022 ‘Ten’ Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County ($105)

Winemaker Dan Schroeder reflects on the character of Sea Smoke’s estate vineyard. “In terms of its unique climate and soils and the meticulous care and thoughtfulness that went into its planting, there is really no other vineyard like it in California.” The vineyard is a monopole, planted only to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in one of the only east-west coastal ranges in the U.S. The wine is named for the ten top clones of Pinot Noir, and the wine is aged 16 months in 56% new French oak. Charmed by exotic notes of Asian Five Spice and unearthed blueberries, layers of Red Delicious apple pair with notes of pennyroyal minerality. It finishes with rose petals laced with anise and black cherries dotted with sweet basil.

97

Sea Smoke 2022 Chardonnay, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Barbara County ($85)

Aromas: Lemon blossom, straw, vanilla wafer
The marine layer that runs east-west across this appellation is referred to as “sea smoke.” This monopole estate, known for its dynamic Pinot Noirs, excels in Chardonnay craftmanship. Winemaker Don Schroeder harvests at lower Brix and reduces the amount of French oak, and to us, the word purity comes to mind when tasting this prestigious white. Glacial-like in its mouthfeel, iced lemon high notes and a delicate marzipan creaminess envelop the tongue.

94

Somnium 2022 Estate Cabernet Franc, Crystal Springs of Napa Valley ($185)

Dense, velvet-textured, and concentrated, this beautiful Cabernet Franc is rich with ripe blackberries, crushed blueberries, and plums, as well as notes of cocoa powder, dark-roasted coffee beans, and licorice root. A background kiss of candied violets lends a lovely counterpoint of delicacy to this powerful wine.

91

Somnium 2024 Danica Rosé, Côtes-de-Provence, France ($25)

Organic Cinsault, Grenache, and Syrah make for a classic—and classically food-friendly—Provencal rosé. Winemaker Julien Fayard has crafted a silky, lengthy wine that’s lifted with citrus blossoms, lively with stone fruit, and savory with cracked peppercorn and slate-like minerality.