GUINIGI

Wine Reviews

96

Three Sticks 2023 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($70)

Vibrant and intense on account of its youth at this point, this terrific Chardonnay still manages to seem finely woven because its barrel-based accents play so well with its fruit notes. Scents and flavors of both green and Golden apples provide ride alongside suggestions of peaches and apricots, and oak augments the wine’s complexity while still leaving it with a profile defined by freshness and linear energy.

95

TOZUDO 2020 Gran Malbec, Pucará Valley, Salta, Argentina ($50)

is from a micro-terroir, single vineyard called Alto Cardones, grown on sandy loam and quartz. Broadly focused and creamy, with notes of leather, blackberry ganache, and espresso. A creamy satin base lines the palate for a glorious mouthfeel. Aged 12 months in French oak with monthly bâttonage and then aged in bottle for an additional two years. The wine was named TOZUDO, meaning stubborn in Spanish, referring to the complexity of this project – and not giving up after many trials and errors and restarts. The winery is 40 miles from civilization, with a population of workers who are descendants from the Incas. “They had never before seen money, have no electricity, or connection to the outside world,” Moreno pointed out.

96

Turnbull 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Fortuna Vineyard, Napa Valley ($145)

A rush of black cherry and rose petals feature satin-lined tannins, impossibly plush. White-peppered pomegranate, orange peel, almond skin, and sesame-cocoa are exotic notes, wired in with co-existing aromas of spiced tea and cedar. The fruit notes are brilliant, apparent in the full-bodied finish of black cherry purée. This prestigious vintage is located on the eastern corner of Oakville on an alluvial fan of rocky, red clay sediment.

95

Turnbull 2024 Josephine Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast ($50)

Dense and unique in its range of flavors, this is a textured Sauvignon Blanc fermented in clay amphoras, concrete tanks, and neutral French oak. Key lime, Slivered almonds, pineapple, guava, and candied ginger-kissed pears surpasses expectations. Its brilliant light shines within and it finishes with a cool, vibrant breeze.

92

Turning Point 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County ($30)

Crunchy tannins release notes of dark cherry and sage. Juicy and ripe, sunshine reflected on plum and violets. Round and approachable and oh so food-friendly with its mouth-watering acidity.

94

Unánime 2022 Gran Vino Tinto, San Carlos, Uco Valley, AR ($26)

Notes of mocha and roses billow from the glass, followed by an ethereal bouquet of Provençal herbs and hazelnut. Dried herbs prevail on the palate alongside hints of anise seed, peppercorn and cedar. A food-lover’s wine, the elegant tannins with a savory grip would pair handsomely alongside an array of dishes.

94

Verdon Estate 2023 Proprietary Red Reserve No.3, Napa Valley ($88)

The wine springs into action with dark red fruit, lifted by an inherent fresh acid structure and mineral-inspired tension. Floral notes abound, from hibiscus to the herbaceous qualities of blackberry blossom. Graphite forms a belt around this amazon: fierce and sexy.

96

Vidal-Fleury 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge, Rhône Valley, France ($75)

Spiced cherries tingle on the palate, thanks to a surge of white pepper and high-toned acidity, generating a grenadine quality to the fruit. With some grip and minerality, the focus here is cured meats, chocolate-boysenberry, and a streaming of fennel. Earth tones of sweet soil permeate the palate. The blend of 85% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 5% Mourvèdre is crafted from old vines on clay-rich soil surrounded by round stones and pebbles.