Wine Reviews

92

The Counselor 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, River Pass Vineyard, Alexander Valley ($37)

Roasted coffee lifts notes of cocoa and cassis. Juicy and fresh in its inky, deep flow of soy sauce and wild blueberries that level off to balance the suede mouthfeel on the energetic finish.

92

This Life 2022 Cremant, AOC Crémant de Limoux, France ($25)

A collaboration between Maison Wessman in Southwest France and musician Norah Jones, this traditional-method blend of 57% Chardonnay, 27% Chenin Blanc, 9% Pinot Noir, and 7% Mauzac sets off aromatic sparks in the form of brioche, golden apple, and peach and apricot with a hint of cream soda. Texture-wise, it fairly floats on the tongue, where tangy apricot and succulent lime curd meet zesty acidity and a hint of walnut skin on the finish.

90

This Life 2024 Rosé, IGP Méditerranée, France ($17)

Musician Norah Jones partnered with Maison Wessman in Southwest France to produce this blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache, which is peachy in every sense of the word. Additional notes include strawberry, cranberry, cantaloupe, mandarin orange, and lemon icing—all brimming from a glass that balances mouthwatering acidity with a slightly viscous texture and a finishing dash of white pepper.

96

Three Sticks 2023 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($70)

The Three Sticks label’s origin story is from the Durell Vineyard, its cool breezes off the Pacific and layers of fog influencing—and elevating — its stature. Aged in 100% French oak (21% new) for 14 months with 100% malolactic fermentation; and thanks to its natural acidity, the buttery influence of the ML is evened out. Nutmeg laces through lemon meringue, with a flocking of vanilla-dusted white flower petals. Pinpoint acidity continues to be reflected in the wine’s fresh factor, with dots of salinity accenting pear and Golden apple.

95

Three Sticks 2023 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($75)

If there’s a superstar site in Petaluma Gap, it’s Gap’s Crown Vineyard, with persisting winds and fog, instructing nature to insure long hang time. The result shows in this exciting, whole cluster red, aged 15 months in (45% new) French oak. A pinch of earthy tones barely touches cinnamon cherries. Its delicacy alights on the palace like a lace veil. Pomegranate is spiced with clove and acidity is bright. Freshness is imparted, satisfying on the dark-fruited, juicy finish.

93

Tiaki 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($17)

Aromas of lemon-lime sorbet are followed by herbal notes splashed with grapefruit and lime chiffon. Strikingly crisp and stoney, with a hint of graham cracker, spiced green tea, and mint.

96

Titus Vineyards 2021 Family Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($110)

Soils on a rocky hillside from Titus Estate on Ehlers Lane with some fruit from the home ranch delivers a majestic red. Dark chocolate flows out of a flourless chocolate cake like melting lava. Fennel top notes glide over suede tannins, while aromas and flavors of cigar box linger. Espresso and a mineral hint on the palate combine with fleshy, plum pit and cinnamon-blackberry pulled from the soil.

96

Titus Vineyards 2022 Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley ($68)

From a family owned 60-acre vineyard and winery in St. Helena, here’s a Cab Franc that fits this column, rich and graceful as a grande dame. It’s bathed in chocolate lavender and brandied red fruit. From a very warm year, it developed maturity early and is apparent by its mouthfeel, cloaked in silky tannins. Mediterranean herbs have an underlying presence, adding a subtle spice to ripe raspberry on the finish.