Wine Reviews

98

PATEL 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Coombsville, Napa Valley ($170)

This Coombsville bottling is no more intensely flavorful than the less expensive Napa Valley release from this vintage, but it is notably more complex—which is saying something. Alluring savory and herbal notes are added to a similar core of dark fruit. The combination of concentration, purity, balance, and complexity in this is remarkable.

96

PATEL 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($130)

An outstanding Cabernet from a vintage that was initially underrated, this shows impressively concentrated pigmentation and physical density. It has already absorbed almost all of the overtly woody notes from 100% new French oak and offers impactful blackberry and Bing cherry fruit with good tannic structure but no excess astringency. Seriously impressive.

91

Periphery 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles ($25)

Ripe, juicy, and generous, with distinguished notes of black plum and soy sauce. Acid structure is well-framed with toasty oak and black fruit, while notes of Mediterranean herbs spice up the finish.

93

Pighin 2024 Pinot Grigio, Collio, Fruili, Italy ($30)

A contemplative wine, it commands your attention. It pulses with a luxurious tautness, revealing layers of spice and rich citrus that build to a triumphant crescendo of pleasant resonance. Like a tattoo sleeve under a tuxedo, it offers a subtle bombast for a memorable package that is more than the sum of its parts.

92

Pighin 2024 Pinot Grigio, Friuli, Italy ($20)

Fun and fancy-free, this Pinot Grigio brims with flavors of green apple skins, potpourri, and a touch of tangelo. Despite its Italian origins, the signature copper hues of the grape evoke the idea of enjoying a pale rosé while strutting along the Croisette. Vibrant, balanced, and full of verve, this is a wine for all seasons.

92

Pighin 2024 Sauvignon Blanc Friuli, Italy ($20)

A cacophony of aromas, including hallmarks of the variety abound, with bell pepper and fresh-cut grass alongside white pepper and a hint of smoke. The palate bristles with evocative tastes across the flavor wheel, from fresh fruits to piquant spices and chalky limestone. It is a symphony of a sensory engagement, girded by an electric tension.

95

Post & Beam 2024 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County ($50)

An instant engagement with the soil, surrounded by tobacco and fresh basil. This is a Pinot Noir with a style all its own. Deep notes of roasted coffee amplify ripe, brambly blackberry and black cherry. White-peppered cedar and a stand-up structure are noteworthy.

89

Raeburn 2023 Chardonnay, Sonoma County ($20)

Glass-like entry, lean and sassy. White-peppered lemon curd, peach, and vanilla marshmallow are perky, ending with a crisp finish.